Great Chalfield, Bradford-on-Avon

Standard

Wednesday morning and it’s a stunning day. Weather is forecast to be sunny with temperatures in the early 20s. We set off for a visit to The Courts Gardens (National Trust) in Holt near Bradford-on-Avon. We have subsequently learnt that this quintessential English country garden is open every day of the week, except Wednesdays.

Plan B (which was originally Part II of Plan A) was to visit the manor and gardens at Great Chalfield Manor which is a couple of miles walk from Holt. Actual distance was 3 or 4 miles as we performed endless detours to avoid the roaming cattle!

Cattle near Great Chalfield
Interesting stile

Great Chalfield Manor is a medieval manor built around 1465 by Thomas Tropenell, a wealthy business man who built and acquired several large estates around this time. In 1905, Major Robert Fuller restored and refurnished the house to its former glory and in 1943, gave the house and gardens to the National Trust to care for it and his grandson and family still live in the manor.

Great Chalfield Manor and Garden
Chalfield Manor, with its church on the left
Chalfield Manor
Chalfield Manor

Over the years various films and TV shows have been filmed at Great Chalfield, including ‘The Other Boleyn Girl’, ‘Tess of the d’Ubervilles’ and ‘Wolf Hall’ (where it starred as Austin Friars, Thomas Cromwell’s house).

Great Chalfield Manor has an ever-evolving romantic garden with an orchard, pond, unique yew houses and a variety of flowers, plants, colours and styles.

Herbaceous Borders at Chalfield Manor
Physalis alkekengi

There are some exquisite pieces of Topiary.

Topiary at Chalfield Manor
Topiary at Chalfield Manor
Topiary at Chalfield Manor

We rounded the afternoon off with a drive to Bradford-on-Avon. This is a pretty town with its canal, historic buildings, shops, pubs and restaurants making it a popular tourist destination. The history of the town can be traced back to Roman origins. 

Bridge at Bradford-on-Avon

Bradford-on-Avon is also home to St Laurence’s Church which is one of very few surviving Anglo-Saxon churches in England, that does not show later medieval alteration or rebuilding.

St Laurence’s Church, Bradford-on-Avon

Documentary sources suggest it may have been founded by Saint Aldhelm around 700, although the architectural style suggests a 10th- or 11th-century date.

It is the most complete Anglo-Saxon survival from this period, and follows what seems to have been a typical monastic plan at the time, though in miniature. In particular the decoration including fragments of large reliefs gives a hint of richness seen in monastic churches. Although the existing church seems all or almost all Anglo-Saxon, it has clearly been altered in a number of ways, apart from the modern restoration, which included removing the stairs inside and filling in windows.

Horizontal flying angels at St Laurence’s church

St. Laurence’s stands on rising ground close to the Norman parish church of the Holy Trinity.

This larger church also bears similarities with the church of its namesake in my hometown of Skipton, North Yorkshire.

Holy Trinity Church, Bradford-on-Avon

For dinner, we headed to the Three Magpies which is situated just outside our campsite. This is another Wadworth’s pub of which there are many in the area – the main brewery is based just along the road in Devizes. The food and service was excellent.

Dinner at the Three Magpies

Henley-on-Thames

Standard

We arrived on Sunday for a few days at Henley-on-Thames. The weather has remained remarkably settled, dry and warm for all of this trip and this theme continued throughout our stay at Henley.

It was warm enough for the “boys” to meet up at the Alehouse in Reading and enjoy a long lunch, outside, at the London Street Brasserie.

Moe and I visited the National Trust property at Greys court for lunch in the gardens. It’s a few years since our last visit but we remembered pristinely kept typical English gardens and finely mown lawns. Covid has certainly taken its toll here and the gardens were far from special. Rather disappointing. As we visited on a Monday, the house itself was closed so do check opening times before your visit.

Greys Court near Henley-on-Thames
Greys Court church (ruins), near Henley-on-Thames
Orchard at Greys Court near Henley-on-Thames

On our way through Twyford, en-route to Reading, we stopped outside the old station house. This is one of the places where Moe grew up.

Station House at Twyford

On another day we walked through Henley along the Thames to Marsh lock. One can while away hours watching the boats heading through the lock.

Marsh Lock, near Shiplake

This is a very popular and pleasant walk along the banks of the river Thames. We passed a pretty Old House.

Old House along the River Thames
Weir and Bridge at Marsh Lock
Views towards the Bridge at Henley-on-Thames

Seend, Devizes and the canal

Standard

On Sunday we travelled from Aylesbeare to Seend, near Devizes, for a week at the Devizes Camping and Caravanning Club site – a 2.5 hour drive of some 87 miles.

From Huntisbeare it is a short drive to the A30 near Honiton which then becomes the A303 which we followed all the way to the A350 which runs South – North from Blandford Forum to Trowbridge. We headed up the A350 and then took the A361 towards Seend and as far as the Bath Road. Turn left on the Bath Road and the site is right behind the Three Magpies public house.

Devizes Camping and Caravanning Club site

The campsite was recommended by some friends of ours from a Spanish trip, as one of the nicest sites they have stayed on in England. The wider area isn’t particularly known as a tourist trap but the site is excellent and the location is good. The site grounds are beautifully maintained but the toilet block whilst clean, is starting to look a little jaded in places.

We were watching this strange looking bird from the awning yesterday. We were wondering if it was some kind of escaped exotic bird – apparently not as it is an Albino Magpie! Perhaps it’s time for the pub, located just outside of the site to change its name to “The White Magpie”!

An Albino Magpie at the campsite

The site is two minute walk to the Kennet and Avon canal. Head West along the canal and after half an hour or so is the Barge Inn. A little further from the canal past the Barge Inn is the Brewery Inn which we haven’t visited – yet!

Head East and it’s a few miles to walk along the towpath to Devizes. We walked as far as the Caen Hill locks which dominate the landscape on the approach up the hill to Devizes.

One of the locks approaching Caen Hill
Caen Hill Locks, Devizes

This is the longest flight of locks in the country – a total of 29 locks with a rise of 237 feet over 2 miles. To keep the water balanced, a back pump at Foxhangers returns 7 million gallons of water to the top of the flight each day.

Foxhangers pumping station

This steep incline at Caen Hill was the reason which caused Brunel to route the main London to Bristol line through Chippenham and Swindon rather than taking the line through Devizes. Devizes was served by a single branch line opened in July 1857 but retired as part of the Beeching cuts in 1966. One can still see remnants of the old line on the walk from the campsite to Devizes.

There’s also a large marina near to the locks – Caen Hill Marina.

View towards Caen Hill Marina

Day 1 to 3, Huntisbeare CL Site

Standard

We collected the van from the storage site at Woodbury on Friday morning and drove the short distance to the CL site, Huntisbeare, close to Ottery St Mary. Things have been somewhat hectic so it’s kind of handy to pitch somewhere locally for a night or two, such that it isn’t too much of a trauma fetching all the stuff we’ve forgotten. Despite endless lists, there’s always a few forgotten items.

As a Certified Location site, it’s restricted to five caravans – adults only / dog-friendly site – and appears to be very busy and is well run my the owners Mark and Lynda.

Arriving on the Friday, we would just stay two nights before heading off to our next site which was a rebook due to Covid issues.

More details about Huntisbeare CL Site here.

Venn Farm Beaver colony

Standard

It’s now Saturday and a quiet day is planned.

Attached to Venn Farm is an area of woodland with a stream running through it. A colony of beavers have made this their home. We didn’t see any actual beavers but the signs are everywhere – from the dams along the stream to the knawed tree-trunks.

Beaver signs at Venn Farm
Beaver Dam at Venn Farm

Here’s a link to some pictures and a video of them, Wild Beaver Colony (devoncl.co.uk).

Other than the trip through the woodlands, we had a quiet day chilling at the campsite.

Sunday and we headed over to Meldon Reservoir, the last of the reservoirs built on Dartmoor – in 1972.

There are some great walks although there isn’t a circular walk around the reservoir itself. The “Granite Way” runs nearby.

Some pictures from our walk at Meldon.

Meldon Reservoir
The Dam at Meldon Reservoir
Another view of the Dam at Meldon
Granite Way Viaduct at Meldon
Carriage at the former Meldon station
The Granite Way cycle route

From Meldon we headed to the Arscott Arms near Launceston for a late Sunday lunch. Food, service and atmosphere was outstanding.

Sunday Roast at the Arscott Arms
Desert at the Arscott Arms

Venn Farm, Virginstow

Standard

We arrived here a few days ago shortly after lunch on Wednesday. It was a relatively short drive from Croyde although the roads are challengingly narrow in this part of the world.

Venn Farm CL site is beautifully maintained and an Adults only site. All pitches are fully serviced.

You can find further details about the site here.

Despite this part of Devon / Cornwall being very rural, the overriding theme of “difficult” hospitality purveys. At the third attempt to find somewhere for dinner, we managed to secure a table at the Village Inn at Ashwater.

A traditional country pub – certainly no bells and whistles – but the food was ample and seemingly home-cooked. They had “Jail Ale” on draft which is definitely one of my favourites.

Foot at the Village Inn, Ashwater

Thursday we headed a short distance to Roadwater Lake. Don’t be put off by the term Lake, as this is most definitely a man-made reservoir. There are all kinds of water based activities here along with some nice walks and a cafe. We had lunch at the cafe, which we considered a bit pricy at £16.50 for two sandwiches, crisps and two tins of fizz.

Roadwater Lake
Roadwater Lake
Roadwater Lake
Sundial at Roadwater Lake

It was a sunny day and evening allowing for the first BBQ of this trip at our personal pitch picnic table.

BBQ at Venn Farm CL

Friday we headed into Cornwall to the National Trust property at Lanhydrock. A magnificent late Victorian country house with gardens and wooded estate.

We explored the formal gardens and part of the 1000 acre estate and woodlands. We finished up on the banks of the very peaceful River Fowey. This National Trust property is a real gem and if it had been a bit quieter, I think we may even have ventured indoors for a look around the house.

Lanhydrock House
Views across Lanhydrock house
Formal Gardens at Lanhydrock House
River Fowey at Lanhydrock House
River Fowey at Lanhydrock House
Dog having fun in the River Fowey

Having learnt our hospitality lesson, we had already booked a table at the Arscott Arms at Campmans Well near Launceston. This turned out to be quite a find. The pub / restaurant had a really nice feel to it and the food was excellent.

The starter we shared was a mixed smoked fish platter served with sourdough toast. It was fantastic.

Fish Platter starter at the Arscott Arms

We’ve been to restaurants where you can choose your own Lobster from a tank but never before been to a pub where there are sheep wandering around the beer garden. We wonder perhaps if there is a similar “fresh and local” concept at play here!

Latest in remote lawnmowers

Croyde

Standard

We are staying at Bay View Farm campsite at Croyde for seven nights. We should have been at Bay View Farmers campsite a few miles away near to Woolcombe, but we think the mistake has turned out for the best.

We are just a few minutes walk from the village of Croyde and about 5 to 10 minutes from the beach. The campsite is fine – it’s very busy and like everywhere else this year, it is a complete sell-out. With periods of inclement weather the grassy pitches are becoming a little muddy. The toilet and shower facilities are kept pristinely clean.

Another theme of this year is the lack of hospitality. Given all the usual campsites are at bursting point and there are numerous pop-up sites, you’d expect the pubs and restaurants to be booming. Quite the contrary – indeed last night only one of the Croyde pubs was open and then, only serving drinks. The queue for Stonebaked pizzas from the van on the beach was over an hour…

There aren’t many National Trust places near to Croyde. There’s a car park providing free parking for members and a Tea Room in Croyde. A short drive away is the National Trust property at Arlington – Arlington Court and the National Trust Carriage Museum.

We didn’t arrive until mid-afternoon and last entry to the House and Carriage Museum is at 3:30pm. We weren’t much interested in these but we had a quick look around the carriage museum and then spent time in the gardens.

Arlington Court
Arlington Court
Disused grain storage facility

I’m not a fan of the latest craze of “re-wilding”. I think it’s untidy and somewhat inappropriate for our parks, green spaces and formal gardens. Is it really best for our wildlife or just the latest cost-cutting exercise.

Re-wilding at Arlington Court

There is a nice walk from the campsite which circles all around Croyde bay, which is a busy place for surfers.

Croyde Bay
Croyde Bay

On Sunday, Sue travelled down from Taunton and spent a few days with Moe in the Caravan.

Sue sporting the fashion accessory of 2021

Moe and Sue walked to Baggy point and then further north along the coastal footpath prior to returning via the National Trust tearooms on the outskirts of Croyde.

Moe at Baggy Point

Another day they walked South on the coastal path to Saunton beach and then over the hills to the rear of Bay View farm campsite.

It turns out they gained more steps looking for somewhere to eat for dinner than the actual walk. And were un-successful!

Bay View farm in the foreground
Views across Saunton beach
Views across Saunton beach

Farmers or Farm

Standard

Farmers; noun, plural – a person who owns or manages a farm

Farm; noun – an area of land and its buildings, used for growing crops and rearing animals.

And why, you ask is this important. The dictionary definitions themselves are remarkably un-important but when they are strung together with other words they become remarkably relevant.

The two images below are of two campsites. Bay View Farmers campsite, is a touring site a couple of miles from Woolacombe beach and located on the Tarka cycle trail.

Bay View Farm campsite is in the centre of Croyde, a 10 minute walk from the beach.

Both sites have much in common, a small spelling difference of just two letters and neither site appears to have outstanding views of their relevant bay, despite their names. In fact, the two letters are actually 15 miles apart down some horribly narrow Devon country lanes.

We are actually staying at Bay View Farm site in Croyde, which was a surprise because we planned on staying at Bay View Farmers campsite near Woolacombe. We planned all our trips around this site – the only problem being Joe seems to have loaded the wrong booking system…

So, here we are in Croyde at a very busy campsite just opposite Croyde beach. The journey was uneventful once we figured out that our final destination was Bay View Farm at Croyde, not Bay View Farmers at Woolacombe and definitely not Bay View Farm at Looe.

Damn this is confusing.

Bay View Farmers, Woolacombe
Bay View Farm, Croyde

Views of and from our pitch at Bay View Farm.

Pitch D4 at Bay View Farm
Views from Pitch D4 at Bay View Farm, Croyde

And Croyde beach in the distance (not a view from pitch D4!).

View towards Croyde beach

2021 UK Post Lockdown England Tour II Trip Summary

Standard

I am trying to catch up with some of the Trip Summaries. This one was from earlier this year, including my 60th Birthday – the relentless march of time…!!! It wasn’t supposed to be spent on a Campsite!!!!

Click on the map picture to enlarge.

2021 Post Lockdown England Tour II

DateLocationGrid Reference
16th June 2021Woodbury, East Devon
16th June 2021High Onn CMC, Church Eaton, Staffordshire52.81733 -2.25021
17th June 2021Buxton CMC, Grin Low Road, Buxton, Derbyshire53.24560 -1.92857
28th June 2021Anita's, Mollington, Oxfordshire52.12599 -1.35513
7th July 2021Bladon Chains CMC, Woodstock, Oxfordshire51.83825 -1.34094
11th July 2021Sunnydale Farm, Hamble, Hampshire50.88573 -1.34141
16th July 2021Woodbury, East Devon

Mileage chart…

StartEndMileageTime (approx.)
WoodburyHigh Onn CMC1844.5 hours
High Onn CMCBuxton CMC572 hours
Buxton CMCAnita's1191.5 hours
Anita'sBladon Chains CMC221 hour
Bladon Chains CMCSunnydale Farm, Hamble792 hours
Sunnydale Farm, HambleWoodbury 1153 hours