Destination Horton-In-Ribblesdale

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An early start on Monday morning and breakfast with our friends Keith and Carolyn. Bacon butties and a nice coffee before the next leg of our journey to Mytholmroyd.

This was our third day of Motorway driving and the third time we had left due to accidents and road closures. This section of the M1 is one of the latest “unsmart” motorway sections and from first spotting the emergency lights of the fire engine, it took 20 minutes for them to pass our vehicle with two fire-fighters leading the way on foot guiding a route through the four lanes.

Our not-so-smart Motorways

We arrived at the CAMC site at Mytholmroyd early afternoon and would need a quick turn-around before walking to the station and catching the train to Brighouse. This proved rather easy because yet again, Joe had somehow managed to book a Caravan Club site without any toilet and shower facilities. This is becoming an frequent error!

Once at Brighouse we were entertained by Richard and Jennifer, who we met at Camping Rosaleda in Spain. Richard had spent most of the day preparing the speciality Spanish dish “Chicharrones”. These are produced from pork belly and are not entirely dissimilar to pork scratchings – only much nicer.

For tea, he fired up the Wood pizza oven and we ate some delicious Pizzas, complemented with home-grown produce from his allotment. Another baking hot day in this mini late-summer heatwave with temperatures around 26C.

Tuesday morning we drove a little further North, through Skipton and along to Knaresborough for two nights at the Knaresborough Caravan and Motorhome site.

Our pitch at Knaresborough CAMC site, Sep 2023

We met friends at the RHS Gardens at Harlow Carr near Harrogate. This is the most Northerly of all the RHS gardens and it’s location presents challenges and opportunities representative of the region.

The landscape here is diverse, with managed woodlands, streamside plantings, lavish and ornamental herbaceous borders, wildflower meadows and small-scale model gardens. Collectively they illustrate different garden styles, types of planting, methods of supporting wildlife, ideas for greening grey spaces, and strategies for mitigating the effects of extreme weather.

Tuesday was a chance to catch up with an ex-work colleague Paul, for a couple of beers and a curry in Knaresborough.

Evening with Paul in Knaresborough

Wednesday morning and a short drive from Knaresborough to The Rowe House CL at Horton-in-Ribblesdale. The weather continues to be hot and sunny with highs above 25C. Perfect (and unusual) weather for this part of North Yorkshire.

On arrival at Horton-In-Ribblesdale, disaster struck our pop-top and it appears that one of the electric pistons has failed. We did eventually manage to lower it and were able to continue our trip crouched in the van. Another trip back to the dealers…

This pop-top is not going well

The Rowe House CL site is a grass site on the edge of the village of Horton-in-Ribblesdale with stunning views across Penyghent.

This landscape and the current weather is a long way from the experiences of my Grandad who lived in the village of Langcliffe and worked on the Settle-to-Carlisle railway line – I gather on the maintenance side of the viaduct and the Blea Moor tunnel. He left home on a Monday morning working daylight hours and only returning home on Saturday evening for his weekend off – 36 hours…

We spent the first day walking around Ribblehead and I took the opportunity to launch the drone and take some pictures of the viaduct. It’s a short train journey North from Horton-In-Ribblesdale.

Horton-in-Ribblesdale station, Sep 2023

Click on the images below to enlarge…

Walking along the path towards Whernside, you reach the Blea Moor signal box which is currently being renovated by Network rail. This is still a 24 hour facility but un-manned. Alongside is a famous cottage which has been for sale for 2 years at the price of £250,000. It sold only recently and is accessible over a two mile farmers track and has no electricity, gas, water or sewage. This will be quite the project.

In the evening we ate at the Station Inn at Ribblehead and watched the steam train returning from Carlisle. This was a York – Carlisle – York excursion.

On Friday, Moe took the train North to Appleby and I headed south into Settle for a class of 72 mini-reunion. Six of us enjoyed an afternoon of beers before the Skiptonian contingent headed back on the last bus.

Moe joined me in Settle for evening Fish and Chips which were excellent.

Fish and Chips in Settle, Sep 2023

Saturday and we left the stunning location of Horton-in-Ribblesdale and our view of Penyghent from the Camper van.

Arriving at the Wharfedale CAMC club site just after 13:00, we headed straight to the avenue to watch the Yorkshire derby (Rugby Union) between Wharfedale and Rotherham. Alas for the Wharfedale supporters, Rotherham left with all the spoils after a 34 – 19 point victory despite a blistering start from Wharfedale who went into the half-time break ahead by 14-3.

Our pitch at Wharfedale CAMC site, Sep 2023
Even the lambs are finding the weather a little warm, Sep 2023

Sunday and we drove down to Reading to see family and stay with our friends Dave and Tracey. We were treat to yet another lovely BBQ and a proper bed for the night. The last three nights without the pop-top have not been comfortable and relaxing.

We returned home Monday after a full-on week away in the Campervan enjoying this hot September heatwave.

The slow way North

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We left East Devon yesterday morning (Saturday) for a leisurely drive North. It’s going to take 5 days before we reach the most northerly stop on this late summer tour, Horton-In-Ribblesdale.

Nellie is comfortable and easy-to-drive and we reached our first stop, Moreton-in-Marsh in the afternoon. We would spend just one night at the Caravan and Motorhome club site which is conveniently located for the town with a short walk across fields to the high street.

The buildings in Moreton-in-Marsh are the stunning Cotswold light brown / yellow sandstone. We think this is the public hall.

Traditional north Cotswold stonework

We found the Bell Inn for later afternoon refreshments before heading back to the van for tea.

Not a particularly early start to Sunday, but we drove North to Kedleston Hall, a National Trust Property a few miles away from Derby.

Kedleston Hall, Sep 2023

Kedleston Hall is one of the finest and most complete examples of an 18th century show palace and parkland in Britain. We walked around the park, gardens and lakes but ran out of time to step inside the Hall and discover the Curzon family’s collection of fine art, furniture and Asian objects. We did have time to look around the church, which is no longer used for regular worship.

Late in the afternoon we headed to the Bulls Head, a few miles outside of Belper. This is our first pub stopover and we received a very warm welcome at the Inn. Food is reasonably priced and absolutely first class.

The Bulls Head, our first pub stopover
Sunday Roast at the Bulls Head, near Belper

We have parked in the corner of the car park and have everything on board Nellie for our stay here at the Bulls Head.

Our pitch at the Bulls Head, near Belper

Nellie’s maiden trip to Axmouth

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And so our Cali now has a name. She is called Nellie because Moe thinks she’s big and grey.

Meet Nellie

Nellie has been kitted out with pots and pans, an array of kitchen utensils and of course a small toilet. A morning’s shopping at the soon-to-be defunct Wilko and of course IKEA, has lined the various storage locations with an array of boxes and packing solutions.

To try all of this out, Saturday we set off to the small estuary village of Axmouth, less than an hours drive from our home, arriving at Axmouth Camping and Caravanning site on the edge of the Axe estuary just after lunch. We had booked a pitch with electric hookup but decided that we should try living off grid for the weekend. This allowed us to occupy one of the pitches alongside the River Axe with views across the estuary to Seaton and the Seaton tramway.

The wardens were extremely friendly and helpful and the facilities, whilst perhaps being a little dated are very clean.

With the help of Nellie’s on-board levelling meters we were pitched up perfectly next the to the Axe.

Nellie is not short of gadgets…

Views from our Pitch

Views across the River Axe towards Seaton and the Tramway

Saturday night and we booked a table at the Ship Inn at Axmouth, just a few minutes walk from the campsite. This restaurant has been in the same hands since 2011 which is unusual these days. It is however fortunate for the local community because the food is absolutely first rate.

I ate a Calamari starter and a main of Hake filet in a crab sauce. Absolutely excellent. Even more outstanding was Moe’s breaded chicken which had a tantalising array of flavours.

Food at the Ship Inn, Axmouth, August 2023

Sunday, and with the previous evening excesses to be worked off, we departed from Axmouth to Seaton and then along the South West coastal path to Beer.

Views across Seaton…
Views across Beer

A 6 mile round trip hike in total. Half of which was level and along the Seaton beach. From Seaton Hole to Beer and back is somewhat more challenging.

The Anchor Inn at Beer

After a couple of Beers at the Anchor Inn in Beer we re-traced our route back to Axmouth, stopping at the local supermarket for evening provisions.

Joe with a well earned beer in Beer
Beer bay
Moe next to the Axe estuary

We have a wet night ahead so will see how the pop-top performs…

Glastonbury 2023, Trip to Wells

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Wells is the smallest city in England and home of Wells Cathedral, the mother church of the diocese of Bath and Wells.

Wells, England’s Smallest city, 2023

There was an ongoing tussle for control in the diocese between the canons of Wells and the monks of the Bath Abbey of St Peter and Paul.

The Abbey of St Peter & Paul became the cathedral of the rechristened Diocese of Bath and Glastonbury from 1090–1245. In that year Pope Innocent IV decreed that henceforth the diocese would be known as Bath and Wells, with its cathedral in Wells.

On our way to the cathedral, we passed the parish church of St Cuthberts and a pretty historical street of Almshouses.

And finally the impressive West front of Wells Cathedral appeared in our view.

West Front of Wells Cathedral, 2023

Built as a Roman Catholic cathedral from around 1175, it became an Anglican cathedral when King Henry VIII split from Rome. It is moderately sized for an English Cathedral and is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful and poetic of English Cathedrals.

Its Gothic architecture is mostly inspired from the early English style of the late 12th 13th centuries.

We joined a tour of the cathedral and spent exactly an hour with our witty and knowledgeable tour guide.

The culmination of the tour was watching the Astronomical clock strike 1pm.

The astronomical clock is in the North transept of the cathedral and the surviving mechanism was dated between 1386 and 1392, was replaced in the 19th century and was eventually moved to the Science museum in London, where it continues to operate.

Against a background of stars, the Sun (the large gilded star on the outer ring) moves in a circle, and indicates the time using the 24-hour analogue dial, which is marked in Roman numerals from I to XII, then from I to XII again. Noon is at the top of the dial reflecting the position of the Sun in the sky at this time.

Astronomical Clock, Wells Cathedral, 2023

In the corners, four angels hold the four cardinal winds. These may be generating the power that makes the universe operate.

The minutes are indicated by a smaller star on the ring inside.

The inner circle shows the moon; the central moon symbol is much larger than the outer sun symbol. A pointer indicates the age of the moon, between 1 and 30 days. The black and white disk above the centre shows the moon’s phase. The white disk rotates once in a synodic month. Opposite the Moon circle is a weighted pivoted disc, containing a small painting of Phoebe, representing the Moon.

At the centre of the dial, the ball represents the Earth, and the clouds suggest the same.

Above the clock and to the right is a figure, known as Jack Blandifers, or Blandiver, who hits a bell with a hammer held in his right hand and two bells hung beneath him with his heels. A set of jousting knights also chase each other every 15 minutes.

Astronomical Clock, Wells Cathedral, 2023
Astronomical Clock, Wells Cathedral, 2023

Before the highlight of the one hour tour (which was free and highly recommended) we were guided through the various parts of the cathedral. Some highlights are below along with some narrative I remember from the guide.

Organ, Wells Cathedral, 2023

There are a plethora of carvings on top of all the pillars. Many of these have little religious meaning and it is believed that the stone masons had a fairly liberal agenda whilst working on the cathedral. The lizard on the right below was estimated by a local professional to take an entire month to carve. And there are so many carvings!

The scissor arches, which often visitors believe to be later, modern additions were actually constructed from 1338-48 as an engineering solution to a very real problem.

By 1313 a high tower topped by a lead covered wooden spire had been constructed but as the foundations were not stable large cracks began to appear in the tower structure.

In fear of a total collapse, several attempts at internal strengthening and buttressing were made, until the famous ‘scissor arches’ were put in place by master mason William Joy as a solution.

Scissor Arches, Wells Cathedral, 2023
Nave and Scissor arch, Wells Cathedral, 2023

The Jesse stained glass window from the 14th century is one of the most beautiful examples of Medievalglass in the country. The window, in its dominant colours of green and gold, depicts a Jesse tree and shows the family and ancestors of Christ, Jesse being the father of King David.

It dates from about 1340 and, considering its age, is still remarkably intact.

One of the most exquisite features is the chapter house also on the north side, approached via a delightfully timeworn staircase and covered by a particularly attractive vaulted ceiling. It is one of the highlights of the building and shouldn’t be missed. The cloisters on the south side are also a delight to wander through and were one of the last major additions to the cathedral.

Vicars’ Close was built over 650 years ago to house the Vicars’ Choral and it continues to be inhabited by their successors today. Vicars’ Close is unique, physically connected to Wells Cathedral and the oldest intact medieval street in Europe (1348) still used for its original purpose.

Glastonbury 2023, our summer jaunt…

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It’s Joe’s birthday this week, so last Thursday we hitched up the caravan and headed off to one of our favourite and the most pristine of sites – Old Oaks, Glastonbury. This is an Adults only site and the facilities and pitches are absolutely first rate.

Old Oaks Touring site, Glastonbury 2023

We have a fully serviced pitch with views across to the Mendip hills.

Our views from our pitch at Old Oaks, Glastonbury 2023

In the “Top Oaks” area of the site, a large grassed area separates us from the units on the opposite side of the field and it is just a short walk to one of the incredible facility blocks.

All the washrooms are immaculately clean and there are around 10 “private” rooms which consist of a shower, toilet and wash basin. Breakfast is served in the mornings and a different takeaway available every night. Sundays currently have no on-site catering. There’s also a fully stocked shop with a decent selection of beers, ciders and wine as well as much locally sourced produce.

It was only a short 2.25 hour drive to Old Oaks and we arrived very close to the opening time of 13:30. By late afternoon we had everything in place and setup. Thursday night was Mexican food and the nachos and chicken quesadillas were excellent.

Friday and the weather was very hot and sunny with temperatures in the mid 20s. After spending the previous day setting up, and several days prior, preparing to leave home, we had a lazy day relaxing in the sunshine and cooked a BBQ in the evening.

Saturday we headed over to West Huntspill where the annual Steam fair was taking place – the Sedgemoor Vintage show. Not quite the Dorset Steam fair but a great day out nonetheless. In the evening we cooked fish on the BBQ.

Sunday and we visited the village of Catcott. We had spotted the previous day that there was a charity open garden event taking place and we decided to expose ourselves to an afternoon of garden envy.

Not only were there some amazing gardens to look around but a local businessman had loaned 6 vintage cars to transport people around the village. One of them has featured in “Peaky Blinders” and they were likely valued at anywhere between 250,000 and 1 million pounds. It was a stunning idea to ferry folks around the village.

New Forest, 2023 – Day 10 +

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We leave Black Knowl in the morning after a hectic time here. We’ve packed a lot into the trip since the last posting from Brownsea Island.

Last weekend, the Cuckoo Inn at Hamptworth hosted one of their beer festivals. The Cuckoo Inn is a long cycle ride from Black Knowl but it’s worthy of a visit with or without a beer festival. Friday nights are always popular, with the visiting Fish n Chip van aka Tony’s frying machine.

Cuckoo Inn Beer festival, May 2023
Cuckoo Inn Beer festival, May 2023
Ploughmans at the Cuckoo Inn, May 2023
Donkeys in the Forest, May 2023

Friday afternoon was wet at times but the weather improved significantly over the weekend.

Saturday we had a lazy day at the campsite, a hot sunny day and an afternoon BBQ with our friends Chris and Alison.

Sunday we cycled to the Sir Walter Tyrell for a Sunday roast. The food here is excellent and on this particular Sunday there was a band playing from 4pm.

Cycle ride to the Sir Walter Tyrell, May 2023
“Hotline Band” at the Sir Walter Tyrell, May 2023
“Hotline Band” at the Sir Walter Tyrell, May 2023

Monday we walked a circular route around the deer sanctuary.

Deer in the New Forest, May 2023
Deer in the New Forest, May 2023

Tuesday we spent in Lymington, first a walk into Brockenhurst and then the train to Lymington. It was our wedding anniversary and in the evening, back at Brockenhurst, we enjoyed a fab pizza at Enzees.

Anniversary pint at the Ship Inn, Lymington
Pizza at Enzees, Brockenhurst, May 2023

Tomorrow we head back to East Devon.

New Forest, 2023 – Day 9, Brownsea Island

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Wednesday morning and an early start as set off at the crack of dawn for a day-trip to Brownsea Island. Being National Trust members we only needed to purchase the ferry crossing.

Brownsea Island, May 2023

We walked to Brockenhurst station and caught the train to Poole. When the railways aren’t on strike, this is an easy journey with 2 or 3 trains every hour. Once at Poole the Quay is a short walk from the station and we arrived on Brownsea Island by 11:30am.

Famous for red squirrels, the island’s habitats include heathland, woodland and a lagoon – internationally important for overwintering and summer-nesting birds.

Brownsea Island is the largest of the islands in Poole Harbour in the county of Dorset, England. The island is owned by the National Trust with the northern half managed by the Dorset Wildlife Trust. Much of the island is open to the public and includes areas of woodland and heath with a wide variety of wildlife, together with cliff top views across Poole Harbour and the Isle of Purbeck.

The island was the location of an experimental camp in 1907 that led to the formation of the Scout movement the following year.

From 1 August until 8 August 1907, Robert Baden-Powell held an experimental camp on the island, to test out his Scouting ideas. He gathered 21 boys of mixed social backgrounds (from boys’ schools in the London area and a section of boys from the Poole, Parkstone, Hamworthy, Bournemouth, and Winton Boys’ Brigade units) and held a week-long camp. The boys took part in activities such as camping, observation, woodcraft, chivalry, lifesaving and patriotism. Following the successful camp, Baden-Powell published his first book on the Scouting movement in 1908, Scouting for Boys, and the international Scouting movement grew rapidly.

Brownsea Island – Birth of the scouting movement

We have visited Brownsea Island on one other occasion, primarily to see the Red Squirrels but on our previous trip we saw no activity whatsoever. This time we were treated to a wonderful display by these charming little creatures

Brownsea Island, 2023

The Squirrels we saw, were following their same route each time as the moved food stores from one location to another.

After the highlight of our trip we walked around the Island, taking in the lovely views and admiring the wildlife.

New Forest, 2023 – Day 4 – 8, Out and about

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Our bikes, complete with their latest conversions, have had a good run out around the New Forest and have performed remarkably well. The only issue we had is that Moe had a puncture after the first day, despite having only recently swapped our tyres for the latest Continental anti-puncture versions.

Repeated new inner tubes all failed very quickly despite being unable to find any evidence of any objects damaging them. We *think* that because the inner tubes (and our spares) are all in excess of 15 years old that the rubber had become weakened with age and having bought a new one, this has remained inflated without issue…

See the latest details here Electric conversion Version 2.

The weather has been predominantly dry over the last few days but the temperatures remain un-seasonably cold. Our first ride out was a circular route from the campsite to Minstead, via Rhinefield Ornamental drive and returning through Emery Down.

The Fitbit didn’t record the entire journey, running out of battery whilst we “enjoyed” lunch at The Oak Inn, Bank, Lyndhurst.

Circular route to Minstead (part)

They seem to have taken the cost of living crisis to a new level, with no evidence of any ham in their ham sandwich. This was rectified but it was an expensive and not great experience.

“Vegetarian” ham sandwich at the Oak Inn

Sunday we cycled around the Eastern side of Brockenhurst, enjoying a picnic at the side of a railway bridge. Normally, such bridges have very tall sides as a deterrent for “jumpers”. This bridge seemed to have a wooden rail to more easily lean over the bridge and spot the trains. Remarkably, there were trains running!

Lunch on a Railway Bridge
And proof that we do run trains, occasionally…
New Forest Ponies, 2023
New Forest Ponies, New Forest 2023

Someone has a sense of humour in respect of this “carving” of Rudolph!

Rudolph in the Forest, 2023

Our route around the New Forest on Sunday.

Cycle ride East of Brockenhurst

Tuesday we cycled to the Sir Walter Tyrell, near to Rufus Stone where we met our friends for lunch. Great company, the food was good and the Abbott Ale nicely kept..

New Forest, 2023 – Day 3, Brockenhurst

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Our original bikes, purchased in 2009 (one Marin Kentfield and a Specialized Crosstrail elite), were converted to electric some years ago. We decided this year, on our return from Spain, that we would have the electric hub wheels replaced with Bafang mid-drive motors. I’ll post a blog entry over the next few days with more details but this trip to the New Forest is the first trial of the new setup.

I’d already cycled around Brockenhurst yesterday and today Moe and I headed into the town for provisions. The mid-drive motors performed extremely well. They have a lot more torque than the front hub drive wheels and the entire setup feels a lot more balanced.

First stop was the butchers in Brockenhurst.

Village Butchers, Brockenhurst, May 2023
Village Butchers, Brockenhurst, May 2023

The butcher made up some chicken kebabs, Chinese style and we left with a selection of artisan sausages and some venison burgers. We can highly recommend the establishment.

Meanwhile, the Forest is teaming with livestock and the fruits of spring.

Spring in the New Forest, May 2023
Spring in the New Forest, May 2023

This little chap came right up to my bike.

Spring in the New Forest, May 2023

New Forest, 2023 – Day 1, Arrival at Black Knowl

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We arrived at Black Knowl following a 3.5 hour drive from East Devon. We managed to avoid the massive East Devon and wider South West floods which arrived in the late afternoon, turning streets into rivers and causing many main roads to be impassable.

The weather in the New Forest is looking typically English over the next week or so. Temperatures below average and rather unsettled.

Despite the forecast of rain post arrival, the day remained predominantly dry and we had set everything up on our serviced pitch after just over two hours.

In the evening we ate at the Snakecatcher in Brockenhurst and spotted this herd of deer close to the caravan site.