Eurotrip 11, 2024 – Week 5, Sierra de Cadiz

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After a less than early start to Thursday morning (8 Jan), we loaded the bikes onto Nellie and were on our way before lunchtime. Just.

We drove for around 90 minutes until we reached the town of Puerto Serrano and parked the campervan in the station car park next to a couple of other motorhomes.

Moe and Nellie at Puerto Serrano, Spain 2024

The station at Puerto Serrano has never seen a train arrive or depart but it lies on the historically proposed Jerez to Almargen railway route. This route was studied at the beginning of the 19th century in order that it might energise the economic fortunes of the Sierra.

The works began under the dictatorship of Primo de Rivera but were never completed and it was abandoned in the early 1960s. In fact, in 1962, the World bank recommended that Spain should not continue with the construction of new railway lines. Much of the track route and infrastructure was constructed, but no track was laid.

In the 1990s, the section between Puerto Serrano and Olvera was revitalised as a Via Verde and several of the stations were renovated; namely Puerto Serrano, Coripe and Olvera. It is quite possibly the most beautiful Via Verde in Spain.

Our journey started at the station of Puerto Serrano and a short return section from Puerto Serrano to Coripe.

The Via Verde is around 36.5km long and the first stage would be an easy 30km or so.

There are 30 tunnels on the Via Verde but two are unsafe and closed. This meant we had a total of 56 tunnels to traverse. The first closed tunnel is just a short distance away from Puerto Serrano and the diversion is a steep drop into the valley and back up again. Apart from that it was an easy trip to Coripe and back.

The countryside is varied and essentially stunning; we encountered goats in the road, sheep, dogs, horses, black birds of prey and a lot of cattle.

Click on any of the photos below to see a high resolution.

We had a short break in Coripe – Joe enjoyed a beer and Moe an ice cream before the trip back to Puerto Serrano.

The parking at Puerto Serrano is not an official Aire. There is fresh water available and a bar / restaurant with toilets – when open. We had a peaceful nights rest before attempting the remainder of the Via Verde.

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Friday morning and left the station of Puerto Serrano for the town of Coripe. There is an aire in Coripe for five vans and we decided we’d explore the remainder of the via verde from this location.

This five van aire, provided by the municipality of Coripe has flat, purpose built pitches each with it’s own supply of fresh water and grey / black waste disposal. Perfect for our 1 day stay. Not everything about this aire is perfect – the availability of picnic benches on the same site attracts local kids and teenagers in the evenings so it can be a bit noisy. It’s also 3km away from Coripe station – down a very steep road – we’d have to save some battery for this part of the return journey.

aire de caravanas, Coripe, Spain 2024
aire de caravanas, Coripe, Spain 2024

Our route to Coripe station took us down a steep mountain road with views across the valley towards the viaduct over which the vi verde makes its ascent into the station.

The via verde to Olvera is a steady ascent all the way from Puerto Serrano and it would take us at least twice as long on the outward journey to Olvera than the return.

A few kilometres from Coripa is the Penon de Zaframagon and a visitor centre which we have been recommended to visit – apparently it’s well worth the two Euros. One day it will actually be open!

Here at Zaframagon, in an area of less than half a square kilometre, is the largest colony of Griffin Vultures in Andalusia and one of the largest in Spain.

Griffon Vulture (library)

We continued our journey to Olvera, a stop for a picnic at the now abandoned and not-restored station of Navalagrulla and finally arrived at the beautiful station of Olvera. Complete with a hotel, restaurant and railway-car themed accommodation.

The abandoned stations of Navalagrulla:

Onwards to the end of the line at Olvera:

Arriving back at the van early evening, Joe enjoying a well-deserved glass of Rioja.

aire de caravanas, Coripe, Spain 2024

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We decided to head into Olvera on Saturday and stay at Camping Pueblo Blanco – located a few kms outside of this old town. After two days in the saddle, it was time to find somewhere with a proper shower! In the morning, we walked into Coripe for a coffee and then set off to the campsite, arriving just after lunchtime.

Some pictures from the town of Coripe:

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The campsite near to Olvera is located some three kilometres from the edge of the town and another couple to the old town where the church, castle and tourist office are located.

By the time we had walked in, looked around the Olvera monuments, failed spectacularly to find a taxi home, we had over 10 miles clocked on the fitbits and were somewhat exhausted. This was supposed to be a quiet day!

View from our Pitch at Camping Pueblo Blanco, Olvera, Spain 2024

Pictures from the town of Olvera, Spain, 2024: