Author: CaravanRamblings

An easy five hour (225 miles) relaxed tow had us on-site at Camping Virgen del Mar, near Santander, by mid-afternoon on Thursday. Weather at the beach was cold and breezy and later in the evening, the heavens opened.

Pitches are tight here, particularly in the section they appear to allocate for us folks waiting for a ferry, but the location is great and there’s a lovely beach bar / restaurant that we have visited in prior years.

In between the periods of heavy rain on Friday, we visited the beach bar at Virgen Del Mar for lunch and then retreated back to the caravan to listen to the rain pounding on the roof all night and into the morning. The pitch was nicely waterlogged by the morning and I was soaked after packing up and hitching the caravan.

A short drive to the ferry and remarkably, a very smooth crossing. No dramas, no feeling ill. We were very lucky whilst boarding the ferry in that all the caravans in front of us were marshalled up the ramp to a higher deck whilst we were routed to the front of the boat just behind the lorries.

We weren’t quite first off the boat as the crew had some issues opening the bow doors but nevertheless we were on our way to the CAMC site at Morn Hill, near Winchester by 20:30.

The ferry pitches at Morn Hill are in a second separate section of the campsite where the facilities block is closed during the winter. There’s fresh water and waste facilities but the washrooms and showers are on the main site which is 100m down the access road. There were about 40 outfits on the site (including the ferry pitches) and only 3 caravans. The demographics are changing rapidly.

The ferry pitches are located on a little cul-de-sac and in my infinite wisdom, I decided to maneuver the caravan hitched up to the car with a view to leaving it hitched all night. Reminder to oneself – just un-hitch and motor-move…

It turns out there wasn’t quite enough room to reverse onto the end pitch so I had to turn the outfit around on the next pitch before reversing onto our chosen one. I then finally realised there wouldn’t be quite enough room to leave it hitched up for the night so off came the caravan… The whole process took about 20 minutes and I really should have made the simple decision to unhitch at the outset.

Still, my reversing and maneuvering floor show was soon forgotten and over-shadowed by the arrival of the last of the ferry pitch clients. And what a beast it was.

A fifth wheel attached to a pickup truck.

Better known in the USA where the roads and campsites are appropriate for such a monster, but on a quaint little site near Winchester, somewhat inappropriate. Now, fair play to the driver, because he could have just parked on an access road – all other ferry pitches were now occupied and it was 10:30pm. Often, having the biggest and most expensive rig on the site engenders a sense of entitlement that you can just park where you want, but this guy and his wife set about trying to get onto his allocated pitch next to us.

Big mistake. The fifth wheel just isn’t responsive enough to get a decent lock in a small space and after about half an hour of attempting to reverse, he gave up. Then spent another half an hour trying to get out of the cul-de-sac and to reverse onto a another pitch. Two go-arounds on the site and finally the cursing stopped and the rig was abandoned, front first, in one of the closed-off pitches.

The only thing which could have made his night worse would have been a visit from a warden “Can’t park there mate…”

Bigger isn’t always better. Honestly I don’t know how he found suitable sites to tour around in Spain because there’s very few sites where this would be accepted and then it would need a double or over-sized pitch. And given how popular the winter opening sites are in Spain…

Anyhow, after 90 minutes of the fifth wheel show, the campsite entered a sense of tranquility around midnight.

I say a sense of tranquility because the ferry pitches are close to a main road and the road noise after 05:00 was intrusive. I think next time we’ll try to find a different campsite…

Our final travels back to East Devon were once again in sharp contrast to Spain. 5.5 hours to travel 100 miles after a road closure on the A303. And not a single hold-up anywhere on the Spanish roads this time. Listen to Google when it suggests a 50 mile detour up to the M4…

Salamanca, in northwestern Spain, is part of the Castile and León region. With a history dating back to the Celtic era, it’s known for its ornate sandstone architecture and for the Universidad de Salamanca.

Founded in the 1100s and a key intellectual centre in the 15th-16th centuries, the university continues to add to the city’s vibrancy with its international student population. It is the oldest active University in Spain.

The Roman bridge has survived since the first century and allows passage over the Tormes River.

Day 1 and we underestimated just how cold it would be in the North of Spain. We took the bus into town and walked around the old city sights. The main square, the University area and of course the Cathedral.

We arrived close to the Plaza Mayor and walked through it on our way to the Cathedral.

The Old and New Cathedrals are actually co-joined – a nice touch that they didn’t tear down the old institution when they built the new one.

The stonework on the Cathedral has some odd additions – we had been told about the “astronaut” but it was no-where to be found and after a short time looking, we decided to abandon the search and head for somewhere a little warmer!

In fact, we retreated into a nice Pizza Restaurant (“La Mafia”), mainly because it had no external seating and looked warm and inviting inside!

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Day 2 and we would walk into Salamanca (around 7km) following the cycle track which runs from in front of the campsite all the way along the river and into the centre of Salamanca. Today we thought we had dressed far more appropriately for the weather but in the end, there was no bitterly cold wind and with clear blue skies, we spent much of the journey into town carrying our now surplus, multiple layers of clothing!

It’s an easy flat route and tracks through what seems like an endless park along the banks of the River Tormes.

Having passed under a new road bridge, we could see the original Roman bridge over River Tormes.

On arriving in the centre, we headed back to the cathedral to search for the astronaut. This time we found it, quite low down to the left of the main Cathedral entrance door.

What is the story of the astronaut?

The astronaut carving on the Salamanca Cathedral in Spain is a modern addition from a 1992 restoration, not a 16th-century mystery. Sculptor Miguel Romero added the figure to the Puerta de Ramos as a signature of the era, symbolizing 20th-century technology and human exploration.

Key Facts about the Salamanca Astronaut:

Location: New Cathedral (Catedral Nueva), on the Puerta de Ramos facade.

Origin: Created during restoration work in 1992 for the “Las Edades del Hombre” exhibition.

Why an astronaut? It was intended as a modern symbol, following the tradition of artists adding contemporary elements during repairs.

Other Additions: The same artist added other, more whimsical, figures, including a gargoyle eating ice cream.

Controversy: Despite theories of ancient aliens or time travel, it is officially confirmed as a modern, whimsical, and artistic addition to the historic structure.

It was even warn enough for us to sit outside the local Tapas bar and have a small snack.

Whilst heading back to the bus stop, we passed the Convent of San Esteban. The Convent of San Esteban is a Dominican monastery and is situated in the Plaza del Concilio de Trento and was constructed in 1524, following the destruction of the previous primitive convent.

Whilst waiting for the bus back to the Campsite, we bumped into some folks on their way back to France from Camping La Rosaleda. Small world.

Tomorrow I think we will head further North ready for our ferry back to England.

This is a fairly large site on the outskirts of Salamanca, complete with its own Hotel. It’s our first time here and we arrived on site after an 8 hour, 380 mile tow from Conil de la Frontera.

It’s not the easiest site on the route North – South (eg Camping Olympia is just off the motorway) but it has better access to the town of Salamanca and it’s been many years since we visited this old town.

It’s an ACSI site and at a cost of 23 Euros per night, including unlimited electricity, it was great value for money. In fact given the very cold evening and overnight temperatures, I’m surprised the electricity was totally inclusive. There appears to be extensive electrical works taking place on the site so maybe this will change soon.

We have a nice pitch, slightly muddy after all the recent storms, about a 100m from the extensive facilities. The facilities were clean if perhaps a little dated. It was a little cold showering this morning as the toilet blocks aren’t heated and the outside temperature was around 6C.

An hourly bus service (which was always very busy) stops within the grounds of Regio and there’s also a nice 4 mile walk / cycle into town along the river. All off-road or on divided cycle tracks.

We are preparing to leave Conil at the end of February after a strange pattern of weather this winter. It has rained consistently and heavily since the beginning of December right up until the middle of February and whilst we’ve enjoyed some dry weather during the last two weeks, it has been often windy and chilly.

There is little benefit in a daily diary of the last couple of weeks, as hectic as they have been. Our friends Richard and Jennifer arrived for a short break here in Conil and we enjoyed some lovely meals out and cycle rides with them.

Paul and Andrea also left at the end of February and we will cut short our stay at Conil as the weather looks a little nicer in the North and it’s been a long time since we explored the beautiful city of Salamanca.

We have had lots to do at Conil, the group of John, Teen, Kevin, Julie, Dave, Marilyn, Marcel, Doreen (not forgetting “Lucky” of course!) and ourselves have been active at the bar and social events. Monday’s communal BBQ has become a ritual, along with weekends watching the Six Nations. The Rosaleda restaurant installing a giant TV, allowed John to work his magic and stream every game live and without buffering!

On our last day, the visit to the Heladeria in Conil was a firm favourite for Rosalind. First time at this location.

No trip to this region of Spain would be complete without a visit (at least one!) to El Calife Moroccan restaurant in Vejer.

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First time ever, was lunch at El Roqeo, overlooking the sea and Conil beaches. Food was excellent – Moe and I shared Pargo – Red Snapper whilst Paul and Andrea shared Sea Bass (Lubina).

This isn’t however a budget restaurant option!

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And our firm favourite, El Nautico at the Port of Conil.

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Not forgetting the many meals at the Campsite Restaurant, including a hanging Kebab for the Last Supper…

I managed a few cycle rides around the area, mainly on cycle tracks or quiet roads.

And some pictures taken from the various walks and cycle trips…

It’s Friday the 13th tomorrow and it may be unlucky for the continuation of the streak of dismal weather. In the forecast for tomorrow, is the appearance in the daytime sky of a strange orange object. One so rare this winter that it’s only been spotted a handful of times since the beginning of December 2025 – a Spanish winter so horrible that the reservoirs and dams are overflowing, thousands of people have been evacuated from their homes and the peninsula has suffered much damage.

This explains the lack of posts on Caravan Ramblings. Storm after storm has pounded the Iberian peninsula with heavy rain and wicked winds, restricting outdoor activities to such an extent that last week I’ve been to the indoor gym every day and taken up Whist to add an extra evening’s entertainment.

In fairness, we have made the most of the community here at Camping La Rosaleda and without such a community, and the well-attended bar, things might have become a little bit un-bearable.

Still, we have been to several community meals, participated in Whist and the weekly quiz. Last weekend we watched an afternoon of sport, including the six nations, and later in the evening celebrated John’s birthday. Teen had organised a rather splendid cake.

Valentine’s day meal and Rock ‘n’ Roll!

Everywhere this winter.

We have now been at Camping La Rosaleda for two weeks and the rain has been fairly non-stop. There have been a couple of nice days but even then, temperatures have been cold with wind-chill even colder, driven by a wicked northerly wind.

Monday was a dry day so I decided to head east on the bike. The route to Trafalgar is all on a dedicated and separated cycle path and I understand that this has been extended a few more kilometres to the coastal town of Barbate. This would be a long ride and there are some steep inclines between Trafalgar and Barbate as the road (and presumaby cycle route) heads inland and through the forest.

Let’s find out…

Leaving Trafalgar, the cycle route is still a bit of a mess through the village of Los Canos de Meca. However, once you leave the east side of the town, a fairly new cycle route makes it’s way inland and up to the top of the cliffs.

It was just under 30km to Barbate and I knew the last few had depleted my battery dramatically. I hoped I had enough power to assist on the route back.

After stopping for refreshements along the sea front I set off on the return leg. This time I had the full impact of a northwesterly wind and despite deploying my final layer of clothing, it was a horrid ride back. To add to the delights, my battery ran out prematurely on the outskirts of Conil. At least the remaining journey warmed me up somewhat!

I’m guessing the bike battery, which is some 9 years young, is approaching its end of life. Time for another upgrade.

Recent upgrades to the bike have worked well. A new wide-range cassette on the rear, brand new Shimano Deore rear-gearset, chain and new shifter. Also, a lightweight bike rack to replace the cheap and cheerful topeak seat-post mounted one. Finally a proper system fit for purpose – all based around the absolute best in class Ortlieb system. And some new USB C rechargeable lights, direct from AliExpress.

Whilst I was visiting Barbate on the bike, Moe went out with the ladies walking group, clocking up some 15,000 steps.

Later in the week a customary visit to my favourite DIY store – Leroy Merlin and the Carrefour at neaby San Fernando. Managed to buy loads of stuff we definitely didn’t need from Leroy Merlin.

Friday night was another communal meal with brother and sister Flamenco and guitar act taking to the stage. We’ve seen this couple before and they are very good. Both the guitar playing and the Flamenco dancing.

And that’s really the highlights of Week 2 at Conil de La Frontera in the province of Cadiz in Spain.

Still seeking that opportunity to be able to liberate the shorts and vest top.

The weather has been a little mixed so far on this trip. Daytime high temperatures have rarely exceeded 12C or 13C and many overnight lows in the low single digits. In between this cold fine weather there has been some warmer weather, but coupled with persistent heavy rain.

Moe and I have walked into Conil a several times and sampled coffee and cake at the cafe in Atalaya park.

My first bike ride was over to Roche and along the cycle track through the pine woods; a quick check-in to the port of Conil, to find out when one of our favourite restaurants will open. Alas, El Nautico has no information about this either at the restaurant itself nor on their Facebook page.

Spain is always appreciative of abundant rain during the winter months to replenish the reservoirs and water aquafers. It won’t be disappointed with the rainfall over the last 6 weeks. It’s rained a lot since the start of December and the pine forest is starting to look like a local wetland. So wet in fact, that the Romeria San Sebastian festival, scheduled for today, 18th January (Sunday) has been postponed for a week.

Friday night at the Campsite restaurant was “Rock and Roll night”. A sell-out, as is normal. The food was plentiful (too much in reality) and just 14 Euros for a nice 3-course meal. Spaghetti Bolognese to start, Pork Knuckle for the main course and carrot cake for desert.

I think this is our 10th or 11th winter trip to Spain. We have enjoyed many smooth crossings over the Bay of Biscay coupled with some fairly unpleasant ones as well. But never have we boarded a ferry in the middle of a named storm packing Hurricane Force 12 gales. Storm Goretti arrived on the South West coastline shortly after our drive to Portsmouth and barreled along the English channel.

Boarding the Brittany Ferries LNG powered ferry, “Salamanca”, was on time and we then spent a pleasant evening / early morning in the Commodore lounge with some fellow travellers heading to our campsite near Cadiz. Sleep was easy to find and the first 10 hours of our journey were most relaxed – we hadn’t left the dock at Portsmouth!

The rest of the journey was pretty horrible. Moe was fine and made the most of the Commodore lounge food and Tapas. Myself, I found the cabin bed to be the best place to spend the next 24 hours… Needless to say, access to the Premier lounge was totally wasted on me.

Despite the delayed departure, the Captain, whilst navigating close to the UK South coast and then the French coast, managed to avoid the absolute worst of the storms and in the end, we arrived into Santander only 2.5 hrs late at 10:30am.

A very pleasant drive on excellent, quiet roads had us arriving at Caceres shortly after 17:30. Dinner at the restaurant and a 09:00 start on Saturday would have us at our final destination mid-afternoon.

This included a stop at services north of Seville to give the caravan the quick once-over.

A couple of beers at the Rosaleda bar and many of the usual suspects are already here at Camping La Rosaleda.

Another busy day today setting up the awning and all the toys and accessories. Finally, by the evening we are finished and ready to enjoy a couple of months in the Spanish winter sunshine – hopefully…