Summary
With our batteries re-charged after 3 nights at Camping Vallens we had a relatively early start on Sunday morning. Crossing the Arctic Circle at the rather underwhelming Juoksenki, we decided on a change of plan and just kept heading North.
A nice site greeted us at Sonkamuotka but we just hadn’t appreciated the Mosquito problem. We knew of issues in Sweden but Finland represented a whole new challenge!
Today’s mileage was 255 but we lost an hour entering Finland…
Monday was a relatively short 155 mile journey to Camping Alta Strand at Alta. We arrived before noon because we’d re-gained our lost hour from yesterday. In the afternoon we caught the bus into Alta and looked around this rather bleak town, albeit with a nice harbour.
* * * * *
We were ready to leave Camping Vallens on Day 15 close to 09:00, destination Rovaniemi via the Arctic Circle crossing of Juoksenki. We headed past Lulea and here the landscape and roads started to feel a little more rural.
To date, and prior to Sweden all the European roads we have been on have been a minimum of two lanes on each carriageway and mostly with a motorway specification hard shoulder. Through Sweden as far as Lulea was a mixture of dual carriageway and separated three lane highway. All the Swedish roads so far have had fencing to protect the traffic from Moose and Reindeer.
Now we were travelling on a standard two lane road, with no fence protection. It was as we headed North that our journey was briefly held up by these animals wandering across the highway. Moe was a little slow on the camera trigger!
We crossed the Arctic Circle at Juoksenki and stepped out of the van to be immediately engulfed with a swarm of Mosquitos. This was worse than Sweden! After photographing the under-whelming Arctic Circle sign, we decided we would head straight North through Finland and not detour through the town of Rovaniemi – the “designated” capital of Lapland.
We arrived at Lapin Lomamökit & Camping, Sonkamuotka late afternoon. Another lovely spot next to the Torne river which for much of it’s length forms the border between Sweden and Finland. We had earlier crossed the border into Finland at Overtornea.
Despite it’s lovely location, the activity of these creatures had picked up a gear (see below).
Swarms of Mosquitos were everywhere. Like the one in the picture, dozens more would attach themselves to the van and at the slightest opening of a door or window, in they flew!!
Whilst a relatively pleasant evening it just wasn’t suitable to sit outside so we headed to the cafe and ate our tea there. Highlight of the menu for me was smoked Reindeer. Absolutely delicious.
Day 16 and we drove to Camping Alta strand near the town of Alta. We have a nice pitch near to the river and without the incessant Mosquito activity (which extends into Norway) it would be nice enough to sit outside. With a few layers of clothing!
During the journey North into Norway, the outside temperature was as low as 6C and there are still patches of snow on the hills. Strangely, once outside, it doesn’t really feel that cold.
As we crossed into Norway, the landscape changed yet again. The pine trees were replaced by the slow-growing Mountain birch, a feature of this subarctic and tundra landscape.
The scenery also became ever more dramatic and the roads are just a little bit smaller.
Once we had settled onto our pitch at Camping Alta Strand, we caught the bus into town. Like the rest of Scandinavia, the buses are modern, quiet and comfortable; the drivers couldn’t be more helpful. Oh, and they are very punctual.
The town of Alta is the largest town in Finnmark and is also known as “The Northern Light City”. We won’t however be seeing the Northern Lights on our trip because there is simply too much daylight. In fact 24 hours of daylight here in the land of the midnight sun.
The Northern Lights inspired the Cathedral of Alta – The Northern Light Cathedral.
We walked down to the harbour and noted a very nice Camping place right by the water. By now it was a little breezy so we were glad of our pitch at Alta Strand and the nice warm shower facilities.
