We left the campsite at Cudillero to the sight of a lovely rainbow, hoping that this wasn’t an omen for wetter weather in the mountains.
Our destination was Potes in the Picos de Europa. A journey of just 124 miles but a reported time of nearly three hours – Google predicting the last 25 miles would take one and a half hours. Google of course was correct, as the N621, running alongside the River Deve is being stabilised and widened for much of the route. An incredible feat of engineering as the new section of road is literally hanging over the side of the valley on concrete supports.
We arrived at our campsite just outside the village of Potes early afternoon. The site is one of the nicest we have ever stayed on. Terraced grass pitches – somewhat muddy in places – with stunning views of the surrounding mountains. The toilet block has a Swiss chalet feel to it and is pristinely clean.
We had a good choice of pitches but the site filled up rapidly until all but a handful of plots were occupied. Our neighbours are repeat visitors to Camping La Viorna and they were also stunned as to how busy it is this year.
On Friday morning, we walked into town.
The town of Potes is located at the confluence of four valleys, near to where the River Quiviesa flows into the River Deva, the latter source being high in the Picos de Europa. Like the rest of the Liébana region, Potes enjoys a Mediterranean microclimate that allows the cultivation of the vines, walnut and poplar. Overlooking the town is Arabedes mountain (694m).
The old town, which is considered to be one of the most beautiful in Spain and is also a historical monument, comprises a maze of alleys and steps with a medieval atmosphere.
It is dominated by the Torre del Infantado, a symbol of Potes, built in the 15th century. It has four floors and forms a stone cube. It costs a mere 3 Euros each for entry and there’s a glass lift to the top floor. From here, one can enjoy elevated views across this medieval town.
The Torre del Infantado is between the rivers Quiviesa and Duve at the exact spot where they meet. On top of the tower there are spectacular views of Potes and there are a number of exhibitions on various floors, including the original work of the first Cantabrian author, Beato de Liebana – an abbot of the nearby monastery Santo Toriboo in the 8th Century.
