Category: 2026 Scandinavia

Summary

With our batteries re-charged after 3 nights at Camping Vallens we had a relatively early start on Sunday morning. Crossing the Arctic Circle at the rather underwhelming Juoksenki, we decided on a change of plan and just kept heading North.

A nice site greeted us at Sonkamuotka but we just hadn’t appreciated the Mosquito problem. We knew of issues in Sweden but Finland represented a whole new challenge!

Today’s mileage was 255 but we lost an hour entering Finland…

Monday was a relatively short 155 mile journey to Camping Alta Strand at Alta. We arrived before noon because we’d re-gained our lost hour from yesterday. In the afternoon we caught the bus into Alta and looked around this rather bleak town, albeit with a nice harbour.

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We were ready to leave Camping Vallens on Day 15 close to 09:00, destination Rovaniemi via the Arctic Circle crossing of Juoksenki. We headed past Lulea and here the landscape and roads started to feel a little more rural.

To date, and prior to Sweden all the European roads we have been on have been a minimum of two lanes on each carriageway and mostly with a motorway specification hard shoulder. Through Sweden as far as Lulea was a mixture of dual carriageway and separated three lane highway. All the Swedish roads so far have had fencing to protect the traffic from Moose and Reindeer.

Now we were travelling on a standard two lane road, with no fence protection. It was as we headed North that our journey was briefly held up by these animals wandering across the highway. Moe was a little slow on the camera trigger!

We crossed the Arctic Circle at Juoksenki and stepped out of the van to be immediately engulfed with a swarm of Mosquitos. This was worse than Sweden! After photographing the under-whelming Arctic Circle sign, we decided we would head straight North through Finland and not detour through the town of Rovaniemi – the “designated” capital of Lapland.

We arrived at Lapin Lomamökit & Camping, Sonkamuotka late afternoon. Another lovely spot next to the Torne river which for much of it’s length forms the border between Sweden and Finland. We had earlier crossed the border into Finland at Overtornea.

Despite it’s lovely location, the activity of these creatures had picked up a gear (see below).

Swarms of Mosquitos were everywhere. Like the one in the picture, dozens more would attach themselves to the van and at the slightest opening of a door or window, in they flew!!

Whilst a relatively pleasant evening it just wasn’t suitable to sit outside so we headed to the cafe and ate our tea there. Highlight of the menu for me was smoked Reindeer. Absolutely delicious.

Day 16 and we drove to Camping Alta strand near the town of Alta. We have a nice pitch near to the river and without the incessant Mosquito activity (which extends into Norway) it would be nice enough to sit outside. With a few layers of clothing!

During the journey North into Norway, the outside temperature was as low as 6C and there are still patches of snow on the hills. Strangely, once outside, it doesn’t really feel that cold.

As we crossed into Norway, the landscape changed yet again. The pine trees were replaced by the slow-growing Mountain birch, a feature of this subarctic and tundra landscape.

The scenery also became ever more dramatic and the roads are just a little bit smaller.

Once we had settled onto our pitch at Camping Alta Strand, we caught the bus into town. Like the rest of Scandinavia, the buses are modern, quiet and comfortable; the drivers couldn’t be more helpful. Oh, and they are very punctual.

The town of Alta is the largest town in Finnmark and is also known as “The Northern Light City”. We won’t however be seeing the Northern Lights on our trip because there is simply too much daylight. In fact 24 hours of daylight here in the land of the midnight sun.

The Northern Lights inspired the Cathedral of Alta – The Northern Light Cathedral.

We walked down to the harbour and noted a very nice Camping place right by the water. By now it was a little breezy so we were glad of our pitch at Alta Strand and the nice warm shower facilities.

We are here for 3 nights – Camping Vallens tourism & fritid.

The location is very rural and the campsite is located alongside a body of water, most likely an inlet on the Gulf of Bothnia. We chose this site for its remoteness in order to chill-out before we hit the road for another three straight days.

I think Moe is getting bored with the driving (we are close to 3,000km now) as she has started a photo collection of roads signs.

The showers and toilets are clean and there is a washer and dryer included in the site fees which we made the most of yesterday.

The weather was nice yesterday with broken sunshine during the 22 hours of daylight. Temperatures are pleasant in the sun but fall dramatically when it’s cloudy.

Yesterday was mid-summers eve. We knew this weekend was a bank holiday weekend but we hadn’t appreciated that mid-summers eve was such a big event in Sweden. Partying continued into mid-summers day and several strange trees appeared on-site. Presumably some kind of voodoo rituals were performed at midnight whilst we were blissfully asleep!

Summary

Wednesday was a relaxing drive from Harnosand to Skeppsmalen. 108 miles driven including views of the High Coast Bridge (aka Sweden’s golden gate) and a detour for lunch at the Rotsidan nature reserve. Rotisdan is a 4km coastline with beautifully polished and flat diabase rock, framed by windswept coastal pines.

We arrived mid-afternoon at Skeppsmalen where there is a Stellplatz near the harbour. The sun was strong, temperatures reached a barmy 22C and we enjoyed a coastal walk and a fish BBQ in the evening.

In contrast, the forecast high temperature for Thursday in Skeppsmalen was 12C so we decided to head further north where counter-intuitively the weather would be a little bit warmer.

We left Skeppsmalen at 09:30, stopped for lunch at IKEA in Umea (why wouldn’t you?), refilled with beer at the Systembolaget near to IKEA and stocked up with groceries from the COOp.

Just before Pitea we refuelled with Diesel at sub £1.50 per litre.

233 miles and we finally arrived at Vallen around 16:30.

We had originally planned to stay Friday and Saturday nights at West Coast campsite in Pitea but given this weekend is mid-summers celebrations, and a bank holiday to boot, we decided to head into the sticks instead.

We reserved a pitch at the rather rustic Vallens Turism och Fritid camping. This site really is remote and perhaps rather more rustic and basic than we imagined. But the sanitary facilities are clean and given the bank holiday weekend, we have a pitch! Obviously our preferred direction of parking was not allowed. Nor our second or third orientations which would have maximised our solar gain; however, given that there is only a pitch price including electricity, we decided to hitch-up and we’ll be able to avoid using the diesel heater.

We nearly abandoned the site altogether when we found out there was no campsite WiFi. We hadn’t had any mobile signal since Umea but just when we were thinking we’d need to find another site, our mobiles kicked into action.

The temperature is around 14.5 C and sunset is at 11:49 pm with sunrise at 01:49 am. The sky just doesn’t get dark in the couple of hours the sun sets.

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Our travels on Day 11 took us further into the Hight Coast region.

Firstly to the High Coast bridge, or also known as Sweden’s Golden Gate Bridge. We parked up at the services on the North side of the bridge which also features a Stellplatz with stunning views of the Bridge. We could only see that you needed to use Swish as the payment method so that might be problematical for non-Swedish residents.

From the High Coast bridge we drove to Rotisdan which is a nature reserve a little further North of the Bridge. We parked-up here for a couple of hours, walking to the coast and enjoying a picnic in the woods.

From Rotisdan, we completed our journey to Skeppsmalen by mid-afternoon. Skeppsmalen is a fishing village known for fermented herring and the fermented herring museum. The village or port authority also runs a Campsite or Stellplatz in the middle of the village with room for a dozen or so units. Very modern and clean sanitary facilities.

From the campsite we walked one of the coastal circuitous paths. The first gallery below shows the various information boards describing the area, the geology and the history of the fishing port. Click on an image in the media file to see the full detail.

Day 12 was a much longer drive from Skeppsmalen to Vallen. We left site around 09:30, arriving at Vallen late afternoon. We passed one of the most Northern IKEAS in Europe around lunchtime so its seemed appropriate to visit it in its home country.

It’s exactly the same as every other IKEA we’ve ever been to! There were many motorhomes in the carpark and did wonder if it’s used as some kind of add-hoc Stellplatz.

Harnosand is the gateway to the beautiful High Coast region of Northern Sweden. We spent yesterday evening absorbing the views across the Gulf of Bothnia and it was nearly midnight before we retired.

The evenings are strange because the sun doesn’t set until 11pm and then rises again at 3:00am. The sky doesn’t really get dark during the sunset hours.

A wet start to today gave the perfect opportunity to write about our visit to Copenhagen and by early afternoon, the rain had subsided sufficiently for us to walk the mile or two into Harnosand. Lunch at a waterfront restaurant was functional if not spectacular.

Given the inclement weather, we decided to visit the Bilmuseum in town. This is Sweden’s largest car museum and home to more than 300 spectacular cars. It’s privately owned but also displays some cars on behalf of their owners. The museum owner is a successful local entrepreneur.

There is also an interesting display of old mobile phones… we’ve owned quite a few of these over the years…

Another strange Swedish custom is the availability of alcohol. Anything stronger than shandy or a weak beer is only available at a government run store – the Systembolaget. We stopped at one in Harnosand to replenish beer and gin. The prices are eye-watering but apparently great value compared to Norway…

Summary

With a wet morning and afternoon forecast, we decided to head further North to the High Coast area of Sweden. Just 121 miles but we didn’t leave until noon.

It’s a holiday weekend in Sweden (Summer solstice) so we spent the morning finding a site for Friday and Saturday nights. No other sites have been booked so far.

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Our campsite is in a stunning location and we are on the front row overlooking the sea (the Gulf of Bothnia).

We walked a couple of miles along the coast before settling down to dinner.

Tonight is pie and chips. Pieminster pies, the last of the ones we brought from blighty. All cooked in the air fryer powered by the Aferiy P280.

Summary

After a balmy evening BBQ, cooking fish from the lake at Arnas Marina, we headed further North today. Temperatures had now dropped to 9.5C and the heavens opened. All day.

We had identified an aire / Stellplatz at Norrsundet but given the atrocious weather, we didn’t fancy spending even five minutes outside figuring out how we should pay, or queuing for the single toilet.

Instead we, looked for a 5 star campsite and decided upon Camping Steno Havsbad.

271 miles in 7.5 hours with three breaks and reported mpg of 38.4

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Camping Steno Havsbad is a huge site and some of the reviews slate it as one of the most expensive in Sweden. We did however, call ahead to check prices and availability. All seemed OK, particularly since we didn’t require an electric hookup.

On arriving at the site, we discovered it was operating the ACSI scheme and the total charge was SEK 28 for the night including electricity, great excellent value.

Availability was certainly not an issue!

Summary

Took a while to pack up from Tangloppen and refresh the water in the tank which was now 7 days young and un-touched!

Nice 6.5 hour drive covering 283 miles, beginning with crossing the Oresund Bridge. The California again averaging slightly under 40mpg.

The Bridge was both spectacular and expensive, costing over £60. Maybe we missed a discount somewhere along the way.

Now parked up at a small Stellplatz / campsite at Arnas Harbour, as recommended by Park4Night.

its absolutely stunning and the cost about £20 including electric which we won’t be using.

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I need to write about our three days in Copenhagen but that might be a little later with some serious driving ahead of us.

The Stellplatz / Campsite at Arnas Marina is lovely. It’s incredibly peaceful, has full facilities and costs about £20 for the night

Payment is either via a Swedish banking app – Swish – or cash in an envelope. We also picked up some fish from the on-site freezer which I’m about to cook on the BBQ.

The weather on the drive North was cold and very wet but it’s now a beautiful evening sat outside. On that note, it’s time for a beer I think!

Day 1

We had already each downloaded the “Rejsekort” app and linked our Revolut bank accounts to it. This would provide us with the cheapest and easiest method to utilise the bus, train and metro. Just before boarding you can “Check-in” on the app and then the ticket is valid for 2 hours. Remember to check-out before the 2 hours is up and you’ll get the cheapest fare applied and then billed at midnight. The system uses GPS tracking to figure out your journey. Clever stuff.

On the subject of transport, the bicycles in Copenhagen are a menace. Moe likened the traffic lights to the start of the Tour de France but in reality many riders didn’t wait at all for a green light!

Our first day in Copenhagen was a day of gardens. After walking through Orsetdparken we enjoyed an early lunch of Smorrebrod at the “Torvehallerne” fresh food market before heading to the Botanical gardens.

The Botanical gardens are either part of or adjacent to the Denmark National History museum.

In the main square of the museum is this artefact. Agpalilik is one of the largest iron metorites in the world and this giant landed in Northwestern Greenland about 58 million years ago. In 1963, it was hauled to Denmark, a task which took several years to accomplish. Agpalilik is still sitting on the same steel sled that was used to pull it from the rocks.

The Botanical gardens were impressive and extensive. The highlight was watching this little fella who appeared out of the bushes right beside us.

There was plenty of other wildlife to view.

From the Botanical gardens we headed towards Rosenborg Castle, a renaissance castle originally built as a country summerhouse in 1606 and is an example of Christian IV’s many architectural projects.

The Kings Gardens, including an impressive Rose Garden are right next to Rosenburg castle.

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Day 2

On Day 2, we visited the Little Mermaid statue. This is a bronze statue by Edvard Eriksen depicting a mermaid becoming human. The sculpture is displayed on a rock by the waterside at Langeline promenade and weighs 175kg.

Based on the 1837 fairy tale of the same name by Danish author Hans Christian Andersen, the small and unimposing statue is a Copenhagen icon and has been a major tourist attraction since its unveiling in 1913. In recent decades it has become a popular target for defacement by vandals and political activists.

Prior to visiting the Little Mermaid, we walked around the star-shaped 17th-century fortress (the “Kastellet”) which has ramparts, a museum and regular host to events and concerts.

A late afternoon coffee by the water was followed by a visit to Freetown Christiana.

Christiana is considered to be the fourth largest tourist attraction in Copenhagen, with half a million visitors annually.

On our way to Christiana, we passed by the vibrant Nordhavn area.

Freetown Christiania also known as Christiania or simply Staden, is an intentional community, anarchist commune, micronation and former army barracks in the Christianshavn neighbourhood. It began in 1971 as a squatted military base. Its main selling street, Pusher Street, was famous for its open illegal trade of cannabis until 2024, when a large portion of the trade was shut down in a collaborative effort between Danish police and the majority of the inhabitants, with the street being physically dug up.

Dinner was at Spiseloppen in Christiana – a recommendation from Bob and Mandy. Don’t be put off by the entrance, steel staircase and graffiti-clad walls. The restaurant is nice and the food very good.

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Day 3

Camping Tangloppen was a great place to stay with a frequent bus service to Ishoj station. Today however, we caught the 128 bus to Ishoj and then climbed on board the 600S to Roskilde.

Roskilde is a pretty Danish town with a harbour and in the centre, the Gothic, twin-spired Roskilde Cathedral which holds the tombs of many Danish kings and queens.

At Roskilde harbour, is the Viking Ship museum, the primary reason for our trip here today. We would spend a few hours at the museum, taking in a fantastic guided tour in English. As well as the excavated ships, the boatyard has on-going construction of new Viking longboats utilising original construction methods.

The main focus of the museum is a permanent exhibition of the Skuldelev ships, five original Viking ships excavated nearby in 1962. Around the year 1070, five Viking ships were deliberately sunk at Skuldelev in Roskilde Fjord in order to block the most important channel and to protect Roskilde from an enemy attack from the sea.

These ships, later known as the Skuldelev ships, were excavated in 1962. They turned out to be five different types of ships ranging from cargo ships to ships of war.

After 3 days in Copenhagen, it was time to cross the impressive Oresund bridge at the not-so-cheap price of around £60.

Summary

We left Camping Ferienzentrum at Heidenau shortly after 09:30 and arrived at Camping Tangloppen near Copenhagen some 5.5 hours later. A total of 212 miles at 40mpg and a 45 minute ferry from Puttgarden to Rodby.

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Having made full use of the modern and pristine sanitary facilities at Camping Ferienzentrum, we left the site shortly after 09:30. The Campsite machine swallowed up our access card and duly returned 5 Euros 50 to our credit card.

Another non-descript journey on the German autobahn. The inclement weather made little impact to the speed of the average German driver paying no attention to the 130 km/h “optional” speed limit.

We had pre-booked the ferry crossing from Puttgarden to Rodby at 13:20, paying extra for a flexible ticket. Whether this was necessary or not I have no idea as we arrived early and duly boarded the next departure.

On arrival at Rodby we were swiftly pulled to one side for a passport and driving licence check before commencing the 1.5 hour journey to Copenhagen. At Camping Tangloppen we were greeted by another automated machine which told us “Unit is Not Ready”. Eventually a human appeared and freed up our pitch so we could continue the automated check-in.

The pitch is ok and the sanitary facilities look newly renovated. This is an expensive site but hotel rooms in Copenhagen are 500 Euros per night this week due to a trade fair so mustn’t complain at £50 per night!

Summary

EES fully operational for all non-EU passport holders but only two stations available. Took about 45 minutes for us to clear with 10 vehicles in front.

298 mile drive to Camping Ferienzentrum took 6.5 hours and the site has an automated Motorhome stopover area.

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Disembarkation was a little more chaotic at the Hook of Holland than the typical Brittany Ferries experience and we were held up behind a vehicle with late arriving occupants. Routed to the Non-EU passport control section placed us about 10th in line in our queue. There was only one other queue open for processing non EU residents. I imagine some unlucky folks were in line for several hours…

The drive through Holland was on absolutely perfect roads. Not a pothole in sight but the journey dragged a little with an almost universal 100kmh speed limit.

Once in Germany, progress was much quicker but we were also delayed at numerous sets of roadworks.

Moe had chosen Camping Ferienzentrum in Heidenau because as well as the campsite, there is a small area dedicated for Motorhomes at 15 Euros per night. This site is about 20 or 30 miles from Hamburg so perfect for our needs. Of course, being Germany nothing is included so you need to add credit to your card for electricity ,(which we don’t need) and for entry into the toilet block. This is 50 cents per “open” but I think once in there, it’s free to pee!

The campsite here itself is huge and located near to the pool is the Acropolis Greek restaurant. Food was good and quite busy for a Monday evening.