With a wet morning and afternoon forecast, we decided to head further North to the High Coast area of Sweden. Just 121 miles but we didn’t leave until noon.
It’s a holiday weekend in Sweden (Summer solstice) so we spent the morning finding a site for Friday and Saturday nights. No other sites have been booked so far.
After a balmy evening BBQ, cooking fish from the lake at Arnas Marina, we headed further North today. Temperatures had now dropped to 9.5C and the heavens opened. All day.
We had identified an aire / Stellplatz at Norrsundet but given the atrocious weather, we didn’t fancy spending even five minutes outside figuring out how we should pay, or queuing for the single toilet.
Instead we, looked for a 5 star campsite and decided upon Camping Steno Havsbad.
271 miles in 7.5 hours with three breaks and reported mpg of 38.4
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Arnas Marina to Camping Steno Havsbad
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Camping Steno Havsbad is a huge site and some of the reviews slate it as one of the most expensive in Sweden. We did however, call ahead to check prices and availability. All seemed OK, particularly since we didn’t require an electric hookup.
On arriving at the site, we discovered it was operating the ACSI scheme and the total charge was SEK 28 for the night including electricity, great excellent value.
Availability was certainly not an issue!
Eurotrip 16, 2026 our pitch at Steno Havsbad camping, somewhere north of Valvik
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Views from Steno Havsbad Camping
Took a while to pack up from Tangloppen and refresh the water in the tank which was now 7 days young and un-touched!
Nice 6.5 hour drive covering 283 miles, beginning with crossing the Oresund Bridge. The California again averaging slightly under 40mpg.
The Bridge was both spectacular and expensive, costing over £60. Maybe we missed a discount somewhere along the way.
Now parked up at a small Stellplatz / campsite at Arnas Harbour, as recommended by Park4Night.
its absolutely stunning and the cost about £20 including electric which we won’t be using.
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Day 7, Camping Tangloppen to Arnas Marina (Sweden)
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I need to write about our three days in Copenhagen but that might be a little later with some serious driving ahead of us.
The Stellplatz / Campsite at Arnas Marina is lovely. It’s incredibly peaceful, has full facilities and costs about £20 for the night
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Day 7, Arnas Marina (Sweden)Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Day 7, Arnas Marina (Sweden)
Payment is either via a Swedish banking app – Swish – or cash in an envelope. We also picked up some fish from the on-site freezer which I’m about to cook on the BBQ.
The weather on the drive North was cold and very wet but it’s now a beautiful evening sat outside. On that note, it’s time for a beer I think!
We had already each downloaded the “Rejsekort” app and linked our Revolut bank accounts to it. This would provide us with the cheapest and easiest method to utilise the bus, train and metro. Just before boarding you can “Check-in” on the app and then the ticket is valid for 2 hours. Remember to check-out before the 2 hours is up and you’ll get the cheapest fare applied and then billed at midnight. The system uses GPS tracking to figure out your journey. Clever stuff.
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Copenhagen train / metro system
On the subject of transport, the bicycles in Copenhagen are a menace. Moe likened the traffic lights to the start of the Tour de France but in reality many riders didn’t wait at all for a green light!
Our first day in Copenhagen was a day of gardens. After walking through Orsetdparken we enjoyed an early lunch of Smorrebrod at the “Torvehallerne” fresh food market before heading to the Botanical gardens.
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Orstedparken, Copenhagen
The Botanical gardens are either part of or adjacent to the Denmark National History museum.
In the main square of the museum is this artefact. Agpalilik is one of the largest iron metorites in the world and this giant landed in Northwestern Greenland about 58 million years ago. In 1963, it was hauled to Denmark, a task which took several years to accomplish. Agpalilik is still sitting on the same steel sled that was used to pull it from the rocks.
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Natural History Museum entrance plaza
The Botanical gardens were impressive and extensive. The highlight was watching this little fella who appeared out of the bushes right beside us.
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – The Botanical Gardens, Copenhagen
There was plenty of other wildlife to view.
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – The Botanical Gardens, Copenhagen
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – The Botanical Gardens, Copenhagen
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – The Botanical Gardens, Copenhagen
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – The Kings Gardens, Copenhagen
From the Botanical gardens we headed towards Rosenborg Castle, a renaissance castle originally built as a country summerhouse in 1606 and is an example of Christian IV’s many architectural projects.
The Kings Gardens, including an impressive Rose Garden are right next to Rosenburg castle.
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Day 2
On Day 2, we visited the Little Mermaid statue. This is a bronze statue by Edvard Eriksen depicting a mermaid becoming human. The sculpture is displayed on a rock by the waterside at Langeline promenade and weighs 175kg.
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – The Little Mermaid, Copenhagen
Based on the 1837 fairy tale of the same name by Danish author Hans Christian Andersen, the small and unimposing statue is a Copenhagen icon and has been a major tourist attraction since its unveiling in 1913. In recent decades it has become a popular target for defacement by vandals and political activists.
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – The Little Mermaid, Copenhagen
Prior to visiting the Little Mermaid, we walked around the star-shaped 17th-century fortress (the “Kastellet”) which has ramparts, a museum and regular host to events and concerts.
A late afternoon coffee by the water was followed by a visit to Freetown Christiana.
Christiana is considered to be the fourth largest tourist attraction in Copenhagen, with half a million visitors annually.
On our way to Christiana, we passed by the vibrant Nordhavn area.
Freetown Christiania also known as Christiania or simply Staden, is an intentional community, anarchist commune, micronation and former army barracks in the Christianshavn neighbourhood. It began in 1971 as a squatted military base. Its main selling street, Pusher Street, was famous for its open illegal trade of cannabis until 2024, when a large portion of the trade was shut down in a collaborative effort between Danish police and the majority of the inhabitants, with the street being physically dug up.
Dinner was at Spiseloppen in Christiana – a recommendation from Bob and Mandy. Don’t be put off by the entrance, steel staircase and graffiti-clad walls. The restaurant is nice and the food very good.
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Day 3
Camping Tangloppen was a great place to stay with a frequent bus service to Ishoj station. Today however, we caught the 128 bus to Ishoj and then climbed on board the 600S to Roskilde.
Roskilde is a pretty Danish town with a harbour and in the centre, the Gothic, twin-spired Roskilde Cathedral which holds the tombs of many Danish kings and queens.
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Park en-route to the Cathedral, Roskilde
At Roskilde harbour, is the Viking Ship museum, the primary reason for our trip here today. We would spend a few hours at the museum, taking in a fantastic guided tour in English. As well as the excavated ships, the boatyard has on-going construction of new Viking longboats utilising original construction methods.
The main focus of the museum is a permanent exhibition of the Skuldelev ships, five original Viking ships excavated nearby in 1962. Around the year 1070, five Viking ships were deliberately sunk at Skuldelev in Roskilde Fjord in order to block the most important channel and to protect Roskilde from an enemy attack from the sea.
These ships, later known as the Skuldelev ships, were excavated in 1962. They turned out to be five different types of ships ranging from cargo ships to ships of war.
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Viking Ship Museum, Roskilde
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Viking Ship Museum, Roskilde
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Viking Ship Museum, Roskilde
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Viking Ship Museum, Roskilde
After 3 days in Copenhagen, it was time to cross the impressive Oresund bridge at the not-so-cheap price of around £60.
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Oresund Bridge linking Denmark and Sweden
We left Camping Ferienzentrum at Heidenau shortly after 09:30 and arrived at Camping Tangloppen near Copenhagen some 5.5 hours later. A total of 212 miles at 40mpg and a 45 minute ferry from Puttgarden to Rodby.
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Day 3 Camping Ferienzentrum to Camping Tangloppen, Copenhagen
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Having made full use of the modern and pristine sanitary facilities at Camping Ferienzentrum, we left the site shortly after 09:30. The Campsite machine swallowed up our access card and duly returned 5 Euros 50 to our credit card.
Another non-descript journey on the German autobahn. The inclement weather made little impact to the speed of the average German driver paying no attention to the 130 km/h “optional” speed limit.
We had pre-booked the ferry crossing from Puttgarden to Rodby at 13:20, paying extra for a flexible ticket. Whether this was necessary or not I have no idea as we arrived early and duly boarded the next departure.
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Day 3 Scandilines Ferry from Puttgarden to Rodby
On arrival at Rodby we were swiftly pulled to one side for a passport and driving licence check before commencing the 1.5 hour journey to Copenhagen. At Camping Tangloppen we were greeted by another automated machine which told us “Unit is Not Ready”. Eventually a human appeared and freed up our pitch so we could continue the automated check-in.
The pitch is ok and the sanitary facilities look newly renovated. This is an expensive site but hotel rooms in Copenhagen are 500 Euros per night this week due to a trade fair so mustn’t complain at £50 per night!
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Day 3 Camping Tangloppen, Copenhagen
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Day 3 Camping Tangloppen, Copenhagen
Eurotrip 16, 2026 – Day 3 Near Camping Tangloppen, Copenhagen
EES fully operational for all non-EU passport holders but only two stations available. Took about 45 minutes for us to clear with 10 vehicles in front.
298 mile drive to Camping Ferienzentrum took 6.5 hours and the site has an automated Motorhome stopover area.
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Disembarkation was a little more chaotic at the Hook of Holland than the typical Brittany Ferries experience and we were held up behind a vehicle with late arriving occupants. Routed to the Non-EU passport control section placed us about 10th in line in our queue. There was only one other queue open for processing non EU residents. I imagine some unlucky folks were in line for several hours…
The drive through Holland was on absolutely perfect roads. Not a pothole in sight but the journey dragged a little with an almost universal 100kmh speed limit.
Once in Germany, progress was much quicker but we were also delayed at numerous sets of roadworks.
Moe had chosen Camping Ferienzentrum in Heidenau because as well as the campsite, there is a small area dedicated for Motorhomes at 15 Euros per night. This site is about 20 or 30 miles from Hamburg so perfect for our needs. Of course, being Germany nothing is included so you need to add credit to your card for electricity ,(which we don’t need) and for entry into the toilet block. This is 50 cents per “open” but I think once in there, it’s free to pee!
Eurotrip 16, Day 2, Hook of Holland to Camping Ferienzentrum, Heidenau, near Hamburg
The campsite here itself is huge and located near to the pool is the Acropolis Greek restaurant. Food was good and quite busy for a Monday evening.
Eurotrip 16, Day 2, Acropolis restaurant, Camping Ferienzentrum, Heidenau
This will be a campervan only trip and we have struggled with what to take as space is definitely at a premium..
The weather will vary from cold, wet and windy to potentially sunny and warm. Having to plan for such a varied climate is tricky and the first casualty is the drive-away awning. We think this would be useful for the second part of our trip but on balance will force too many compromises on what else we can take
Preparation is at an advanced stage and we are booked on the ferry for Sunday night. Final shop tomorrow, close up the house and then we head off Sunday lunchtime.
MOT and Service completed early – ✓
Red Pennant annual policy expires August (and then it is no more…) – ✓
GHIC cards renewed – ✓
FLT Pass tag delivered – ✓
Ferry pass ordered and setup – ᳵ (ordered 2 Jun.26)
Cash for Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Euros – ✓
Aferiy P280 Powerbank delivered and connected to Victron MPPT controller – ✓
10A Charging cable arriving tomorrow – ᳵ
SearchforSites subscription active – ✓
Park4Night subscription active – ✓
ACSI subscription active – ✓
Ferry, Harwich to Hook of Holland booked – ✓
First 4-night campsite booked – ✓
Water system in Campervan sterilised – ✓
New Duvet rolls sewn and stuffed – ✓
Check van levels, tyre pressures – ✓
Wash and polish van – ✓
Eurotrip 16, Nellie is washed, polished and ready to rollEurotrip 16, Just a little space for the final shop
An easy five hour (225 miles) relaxed tow had us on-site at Camping Virgen del Mar, near Santander, by mid-afternoon on Thursday. Weather at the beach was cold and breezy and later in the evening, the heavens opened.
Cove at Virgen del mar, Santander, Spain 2026
Cove at Virgen del mar, Santander, Spain 2026
Cove at Virgen del mar, Santander, Spain 2026
Pitches are tight here, particularly in the section they appear to allocate for us folks waiting for a ferry, but the location is great and there’s a lovely beach bar / restaurant that we have visited in prior years.
Our pitch at Camping Virgen del mar, Spain 2026
In between the periods of heavy rain on Friday, we visited the beach bar at Virgen Del Mar for lunch and then retreated back to the caravan to listen to the rain pounding on the roof all night and into the morning. The pitch was nicely waterlogged by the morning and I was soaked after packing up and hitching the caravan.
A short drive to the ferry and remarkably, a very smooth crossing. No dramas, no feeling ill. We were very lucky whilst boarding the ferry in that all the caravans in front of us were marshalled up the ramp to a higher deck whilst we were routed to the front of the boat just behind the lorries.
Pole position for exiting from the Santander ferry, Spain 2026
We weren’t quite first off the boat as the crew had some issues opening the bow doors but nevertheless we were on our way to the CAMC site at Morn Hill, near Winchester by 20:30.
The ferry pitches at Morn Hill are in a second separate section of the campsite where the facilities block is closed during the winter. There’s fresh water and waste facilities but the washrooms and showers are on the main site which is 100m down the access road. There were about 40 outfits on the site (including the ferry pitches) and only 3 caravans. The demographics are changing rapidly.
Morn Hill CAMC Ferry pitches, Spain 2026
The ferry pitches are located on a little cul-de-sac and in my infinite wisdom, I decided to maneuver the caravan hitched up to the car with a view to leaving it hitched all night. Reminder to oneself – just un-hitch and motor-move…
It turns out there wasn’t quite enough room to reverse onto the end pitch so I had to turn the outfit around on the next pitch before reversing onto our chosen one. I then finally realised there wouldn’t be quite enough room to leave it hitched up for the night so off came the caravan… The whole process took about 20 minutes and I really should have made the simple decision to unhitch at the outset.
Still, my reversing and maneuvering floor show was soon forgotten and over-shadowed by the arrival of the last of the ferry pitch clients. And what a beast it was.
A fifth wheel attached to a pickup truck.
Better known in the USA where the roads and campsites are appropriate for such a monster, but on a quaint little site near Winchester, somewhat inappropriate. Now, fair play to the driver, because he could have just parked on an access road – all other ferry pitches were now occupied and it was 10:30pm. Often, having the biggest and most expensive rig on the site engenders a sense of entitlement that you can just park where you want, but this guy and his wife set about trying to get onto his allocated pitch next to us.
Big mistake. The fifth wheel just isn’t responsive enough to get a decent lock in a small space and after about half an hour of attempting to reverse, he gave up. Then spent another half an hour trying to get out of the cul-de-sac and to reverse onto a another pitch. Two go-arounds on the site and finally the cursing stopped and the rig was abandoned, front first, in one of the closed-off pitches.
The only thing which could have made his night worse would have been a visit from a warden “Can’t park there mate…”
Morn Hill CAMC Ferry pitches, Spain 2026
Morn Hill CAMC Ferry pitches, Spain 2026
Bigger isn’t always better. Honestly I don’t know how he found suitable sites to tour around in Spain because there’s very few sites where this would be accepted and then it would need a double or over-sized pitch. And given how popular the winter opening sites are in Spain…
Anyhow, after 90 minutes of the fifth wheel show, the campsite entered a sense of tranquility around midnight.
I say a sense of tranquility because the ferry pitches are close to a main road and the road noise after 05:00 was intrusive. I think next time we’ll try to find a different campsite…
Our final travels back to East Devon were once again in sharp contrast to Spain. 5.5 hours to travel 100 miles after a road closure on the A303. And not a single hold-up anywhere on the Spanish roads this time. Listen to Google when it suggests a 50 mile detour up to the M4…
