Eurotrip 8, 2020 – Day 63, Lockdown day 2…

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It’s Monday the 16th and we wake up to another beautiful day here in Conil depite a chilling wind from the North reminding us that it is day 2 of lockdown.

We assess options. Two outfits were planning to leave on Wednesday to travel through Spain and France but they just heard all Brittany Ferries will be cancelled soon. Ester from the site tells us they will be allowed free travel through Spain but can’t guarantee the border to France will be open. Once you leave the site, the State of Emergency doesn’t permit re-entry.

They are also now re-assessing their options and we decide to stay here. If the lockdown continues beyond 15 days medication might be a problem, in particular a specialist asthma inhaler for Moe.

We head into Conil as we are allowed to do if visiting a Pharmacy or Supermarket. Without prescriptions (we show empty boxes), we secure 1 months worth of the common meds for 23 Euros. No surprise they haven’t got Moe’s inhaler.

Pharmacy number two also don’t have the inhaler but in a fantastic show of service, promise they’ll locate one by 5pm. They do and it’s a whopping 34 Euros. Not an issue under the circumstances but in Blighty, it can take days to weeks to track this down…

Next we hit the supermarkets. Only one person per family group allowed, security on the door and yellow lines at the checkout to mark out the 1m “safe” distance. Nothing is in short supply except our favourite red wine, “The Guv’nor” – but that’s not entirely unusual.

There is no hand santiser, gloves or masks available anywhere. We have created our own hand sanitiser but don’t tell anyone.

Makeshift Hand Sanitiser…
Homemade hand sanitiser – finished product

Our friends in Cadiz are rounded up by the Guardia and told to stay off the streets. They will be hoping that the trains to Sevilla are operating tomorrow and also the BA flight back to London.

In an act of sardonic madness, we throw a BBQ for Paul and Andrea and listen to a new Spotify playlist – “Coronavirus Awesome Mix 2020”. Copious amounts of food, beer and wine are consumed. Ester from the campsite tells us to remain 1m apart!

Lockdown day 2, Food, Beer and wine…

Troubling times – stay safe everyone.

Eurotrip 8, 2020 – Day 63, Lockdown day 1…

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We were expecting the lockdown to commence at 08:00 on Monday so had planned our last trip out on the bikes. A quick visit to reception (where the staff are now donning gloves and masks) and a difficult converstation from about 3m away, behind the new barrier, seemed to indicate the measures had been implemented immediately last night.

We are told we can’t travel anywhere and not to attempt to drive to Cadiz. Being a Sunday, there are no shops open so apparently there is no justifictaion to travel. A couple walk to the beach and are turned back by the Guardia.

It will be possible to visit the shops tomorrow but only one family member is allowed in at once.

The only note from reception so far is:

Camping La Rosaleda Official Statement

Our friends in Cadiz were told to leave the hotel on Monday (the end of their reservation) but have managed to secure another night. They have booked a BA flight out of Sevilla tomorrow and plan on taking the train there from Cadiz.

A number of outfits are planning to leave Wednesday in the belief that their journeys will not be impeded as they travel through Spain and France. Traffic jams of Caravans and Motorhomes have been reported around Salamanca as people try to escape the lockdown. Salamanca is about half way to the France – Spain border.

We read a lot and BBQ in the evening. Another hot and sunny day. Tomorrow we will head to the shops and see if anything is available… We have a larger excess of red wine and Cava now that our friends are stuck in Cadiz.

Eurotrip 8, 2020 – Day 62, Mass exodus…

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Friends of ours flew into Jerez on Friday and are spending the weekend in Cadiz with plans to join us on Monday at Rosaleda. They appear presently quite relaxed about the situation as they relay everything in Cadiz is open.

Meanwhile, the opposite view is being taken by many of the French and Dutch campers at Rosaleda. Our neighbours were here when we arrived and had several more weeks planned in Spain. Today, both couples either side of us quickly packed and headed off early. How true it is or not, they are expecting the Spanish French border to be closed from Monday.

We are able to buy fresh supplies at Aldi and Mercadona and have sufficient food for around seven days. We weren’t able to stockpile toilet roll – we don’t need any – but perhaps a large pile is some kind of status symbol? The meat aisles were fully stocked but we heard a little later that the meat had all sold out within an hour of our visit.

We look into Brittany Ferry Spain to UK ferry crossings and as we log in, their Website tells us our sailing to Plymouth is cancelled. We can’t amend the booking so call Customer Services. After an hour on hold, during which time we’d already booked another return journey on the 31st March, we got through to someone. They advised that Pont Aven would not be returning to service until 12th April (earliest) due to a cessation of bookings – so entirely for fiscal reasons. Jason sorts out the refunds and we have a date home.

The State of Emergency has now been in place for almost 24 hours and whilst we haven’t heard any official announcements, we understand only supermarkets, pharmacies and petrol stations will be allowed to remain open. All non essential travel will cease. Our daughter was very lucky to return back to Bristol yesterday.

I speak to our friends in Cadiz around 7:00pm and they aren’t now quite so relaxed. In the middle of their tea, everything around them is being locked down.

Much later we try to help them find flights out of Seville tomorrow but availability is vanishing before our very eyes. It appears that maybe Pedro Sanchez has issued the decree to shutdown Spain already.

We head for the sack around midnight.

Eurotrip 8, 2020 – Day 55 to 61, More visitors…

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Somehow folks must have got wind that this winter the weather would be exceptional in Spain. Today our daughter Sue and boyfriend Carlos arrived at Malaga airport from Bristol.

It’s about a five hour round trip from Conil de la Frontera to Malaga airport and despite the flight being delayed by some time, we still managed to arrive a few minutes late at the airport where Sue and Carlos were awaiting their taxi.

They had rented one of the bungalows at Camping La Rosaleda and we arrived with time to collect the keys and to settle down for the England v Wales rugby game. A comprehensive win for England despite the close score (30 – 33). The scoreline became as little more presentable to Wales during the latter stages of the game when the player count was 13 against 16 in Wales favour.

Dinner was at the campsite restaurant.

Sunday we made lunch at the van before heading into Conil and a swift beer at the Shack. BBQ in the evening.

Sue and Carlos headed into Cadiz on Mondy for a days sight-seeing. We went shopping and then what is probably our favourite cycle ride, the circuit through cabo Roche, down to the port of Conil and finally off-road across the cliffs back to Conil.

Circuitos ride round cabo Roche

Tuesday was the repeat of a previous trip to Trafalgar, Vejer and the morroccan restaurant, El Calife (Plaza d’Espana, Vejer).

Wednesday the young ones caught the train from San Fernando Bahia Sur to Seville. The oldies drove to Jerez and enjoyed a tapas lunch, following the mapped out circuit of Jerez de la Frontera.

Main square in Jerez
Plaza de la Ascunsion, Jerez, Spain 2020
Inside Jerez Cathedral, Spain 2020

Another of our old favourite walks and haunts – the 8 mile round trip hike to the port of Conil with lunch at El Nautico. The portacabins have doubled in size since our last Spanish adventure and have had something of a makeover. We still recognised the waitress and the food was as good as ever.

This week has gone really quickly and it’s time to return to Malaga so Sue and Carlos can catch an early morning flight tomorrow. They get a half day to do some sightseeing but the major venues are closed as a result of the Corona virus, Covid-19. Yesterday the Andalusian government annouced the closure of all schools and this has freaked people out. The Mercadona this morning was like a shop at Christmas – long winding queues and empty shelves. To date, the only items out of stock have been hand sanitizer and pure alcohol (rubbing not drinking!).

We return to Conil but get caught up in a horrendous traffic jam near Gibraltar so divert through the town of Los Barrios. We pass a Pharmacy and guess what – alcohol!

Makeshift Hand Sanitiser…

It’s almost beer o’clock when Paul appears and drags me to the campsite bar where there’s a large gathering of Spanish locals glued to the TV screen. Spain has declared a State of Emergency and will announce sweeping new powers within 24 hours. The locals expect this to result in the closure of all bars and restaurants for at least two weeks.

Now we are concerned. Our meat supply is depleted, we need further stocks of wine and beer, plus we need more toilet roll. A lot more toilet roll. I don’t know why as we’ve got plenty already, but apparently in the face of an apocolypse, Toilet Roll is our number one best friend.

We decide to enjoy the last supper at the campsite restaurant…

The Last Supper before lockdown…

Today is Friday 13th. It feels like Friday 13th.

Eurotrip 8, 2020 – Day 51 to 54, Calm returns…

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Our first visitors from Blighty returned home yesterday and we have a few days before our next guests arrive and occupy one of the fine bungalows at Camping La Roselada.

Day 51 (Tuesday) was a total chill day. I need not comment on the weather. It’s wall-to-wall sunshine with temperatures in the early to mid 20s, dependent on the wind direction. The wind still carries a chill to it and temperatures fall away dramatically overnight but we are enjoying some exceptional weather this year.

Wednesday we caught the bus to El Palmar for the walk back to Conil. The Bus station is a soulless place but it is clean, modern and entirely fit for its purpose.

Estacion de L’Autobus, Conil de la Frontera, Spain 2020

We ate lunch near the old tower and the surfing beach was a busy place today with many surf schools in progress

El Palmar, The Surfers Beach

As we approach Conil, the area and beaches are simply stunning – the best in Spain? Perhaps even the most unspoilt in Europe.

View towards Conil from El Palmar

And the reward for the long walk back from El Palmar, a swift beer at our favourite beach restauarant, known locally as “The Shack”.

The Shack, Conil de la Frontera, Spain 2020

Evening was English quiz night in the restaurant.

Thursday and we are on Day 53. Bit of a quiet day, fixing the splashback on the kitchen post a visit to Leroy Merlin. The splashback had already been replaced under warranty but it didn’t fit properly and a strong glue applied in an attempt to oversome these issues had resulted in the rear film delaminating from the perspex.

In the end, I removed all the lamination and applied a grey spray paint to the rear of the splashback, before re-assembling and filling gaps with a flexible silicone. I doubt the spray paint is a robust solution but it was best I could think of.

Friday, the eve of the arrival of our daughter Sue and boyfriend Carlos, involved much shopping (quite how many provisions a young couple need for 6 nights is mind-boggling).

In the afternoon, I did manage to slot in a nice 10 mile bike ride to cabo Roche.

Bike ride to Cabo Roche

The evening’s entertainment was a three course set meal at the campsite restauarant with entertainment from “Spanish Elvis”.

It was a remarkably enjoyable affair and Spanish Elvis had the place rocking. There’s a rumour he may be back for another show in which case I ought to try and capture some pictures or video.

Eurotrip 8, 2020 – Day 47 to 50, Brits abroad, Part I…

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As the latest storm piles into Blighty with yet more rain, wind, rain, snow and sleet, one lucky couple boarded an early morning Ryanair flight from Stansted to Jerez.

Such is the popularity of a weekend hosted chezcaravan Moe and Joe that a lottery system may be required for future years!

Spain respects Domingo and as usual the shops won’t be open. Neither will they be open on Friday because Friday is Andalusian day. This will mean most of Andalusia will be closed during the weekend’s festivities and the usual quiet evenings at La Roselada will be alive until the early hours of the morning with Spanish chatter.

Still, our friends D and T arrived bearing gifts of G and T, thus assuring themselves pride of place for Andalusian weekend!

Bearing gifts

D and T had secured one of the last available bungalows at Camping La Roselada, a Tier 2 model the “Comfort”. Two bedrooms, bathroom, seperate living area and kitchen and complete with A/C.

Friday’s itinery, post settling in and lunch at the van, was a visit to the local town of Conil. A couple of beers at the “Shack” on the beach was followed by beer tasting at the Conil micro-brewery.

Dinner was Tapas at the Septimo Arte Gastropub in Conil. As recommended by Ester from Camping La Roselada. Ester’s recommendations never seem to disappoint.

On the way to dinner at Septimo Arte gastropub

As it’s party day, there was a stage set up and headlining on the Friday night was El Capitan Veneno. Not really to our taste so we fought our way through the maddening crowds and headed back to camp.

Saturday, Day 48

Saturday and we have another full day ahead. As it’s festivity time in Andalusia, the bike rental shop is closed so we have to take the car to Trafalgar. Here, Lord Nelson defeated the combined Spanish and French fleets on 21st October 1805.

Lighthouse at Trafalgar, Spain 2020
View from Trafalgar, Spain 2020

More information available – Visit to Trafalgar 2016.

From Trafalgar we drove the short distance to Vejer de la Frontera, one of the pretty (if not the prettiest) “white village” in the region.

A selection of pre-lunch photos from Vejer de La Frontera.

Vejer de la Frontera calle, Spain 2020
The church at Vejer, Spain 2020
The church at Vejer, Spain 2020

And finally, another view of the magnificent square and fountain at Vejer.

Plaza d’Espana, Vejer de la Frontera, Spain 2020

Lunch would be at the irresistible El Calife restaurant but we had a few minutes spare during which time we enjoyed a G and T on the Terrace bar.

G and T O’clock

Joe ate the Mixed Grill – note – the half portion whilst Moe enjoyed the lamb kebabs. D and T thoroughly recommend the Tagin.

El Calife Mixed Grill – half portion
El Calife Lamb Kebabs, Vejer

Post lunch (v late lunch) we headed back to Conil for the procession. A lot of work had gone into the production of the outfits but the procession itself was a typically chaotic Spanish affair.

The Andalusian Parade, Conil de la Frontera, Spain 2020
The Andalusian Parade, Conil de la Frontera, Spain 2020
The Andalusian Parade, Conil de la Frontera, Spain 2020
The Andalusian Parade, Conil de la Frontera, Spain 2020

Finally, a night cap or two at the van and another exquisite day was brought to a conclusion.

Sunday, Day 49

There is no let-up to the pace of this weekend and after packing a picnic, we head over the cliff-tops to the Port of Conil. Here we enjoy lunch sitting by the harbour and refreshments at El Pastor, also at the port.

The round trip walk is around 9 miles and it’s not an easy walk so we take our time on the return journey. We stop and admire the myriad of brightly-coloured para-gliders.

Paragliding, Conil de la Frontera, Spain 2020
Paragliding, Conil de la Frontera, Spain 2020
Moe and T on the beach returning from Conil port

Dinner was a BBQ back at the Van where we were joined for a couple of hours by Paul and Andrea. Pre-dinner drink at the campsite bar.

Monday, Day 50

The days are ticking away. Another early start and we drive D and T to Jerez airport. They seem to have enjoyed their stay at Camping la Roselada, are now “sold” on the concept of electric bikes having ridden ours for a trial, but are they ready for a life on the road. Probably not just yet…

Quiet time for the rest of the day and a few days to recoup before our daughter and her boyfriend arrive at Malaga on Saturday…

The weather has been a degree to two cooler over the weekend, and a little bit of rain overnight, but all-in-all, the weather has been good and the outlook is for more of the same.

Eurotrip 8, 2020 – Day 45 to 46, The Sunshine Tour…

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Wednesday and a few more jobs. Washed the car, more shopping and in the afternoon, we cycled into Conil centre for a coffee.

Paul and Andrea arrived from Malaga and we hosted a BBQ in the evening. Food was excellent – but of course I would say that – the discovery of a wine – El Governor at 2 or 3 Euros a bottle is simple outstanding. Headed back to Mercadona and cleared the shelf.

On Thursday we drove to Vejer and spent the day watching the show jumping on the Sunshine Tour.

Vejer de la Frontera in the province of Cadiz, Andalusia, hosts a new edition of the Sunshine Tour, comprising international dressage and show jumping events. The Sunshine Tour lived up to its name with temperatures topping out at 24C.

The Montenmedio Riding Centre brings together riders from all over the world in February and March for show jumping and dressage events as part of this Sunshine Tour.

The Sunshine Tour, Vejer, Spain 2020

It’s free to get in, lunch was reasonable and a very warm and sunny day to watch the show jumping. This is, by the way, a huge event.

The Three Amigos, Sunshine Tour, Vejer, Spain 2020

Eurotrip 8, 2020 – Day 43 to 44, Puerto de conil…

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Monday and it’s day 43, time for some chores. First up is a trip to the Repsol garage in Chiclana to fill up the gas bottle with Autogas. This goes smoothly and no-one takes issue with us filling a cylinder on the forecourt. Admittedly we are at the back of the shop and no prepayment is currently required. ?Prepago? – Do I prepay?

We have some tapas for lunch at El Cailife in Vejer – always a pleasure to visit this fine “white” village and El Calife was a good choice for lunch.

Plaza d’Espana, Vejer de la Frontera, Spain 2020
El Calife, Vejer de la Frontera Spain 2020
Mezze at El Calife, Vejer de la Frontera, Spain 2020

Dinner was Beef and oven potatoes at the restaurant, a mere 8 Euros per person.

Tuesday was a full day out with the walking group – this time as we headed in the direction of Cadiz and the Port of conil. It’s between 9 and 10 miles round trip and we were out for much of the day. Lunch was a picnic on the rocks at the port and then a coffee at El Pastor cafe / restuarant.

The Walking Group meandering across the Cliff Top
View towards Conil from the port of Conil
Flora and Fauna along the cliff near Conil port

Eurotrip 8, 2020 – Day 42, Bike Ride to La Barossa…

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Whilst we continue to enjoy warm, dry and bright weather it has become rather windy of late. Not the ideal conditions to set off on a 20+ mile bike ride but the roads were all quiet and much of the route was off road.

We headed west to the Port of Conil, capturing the graveyard of anchors and views from the lighthouse back across the sea towards Conil de la Frontera.

The anchors look as though they have been abandoned but apparently, they are all utilised during the Tuna fishing season.

Field of Anchors

Views from above the port at the location of the lighthouse.

View from Lighthouse, Port of Conil, 2020

We continued to head along the coast, through Roche and then along to Nova Sancti Petri.

The invasions to which the province has been subjected to (as a result of its strategic location between two continents) have left a legacy of military constructions that are still standing today.

This is the case of the torre del Puerco, strategically located on the boundary between Conil and Chiclana de la Frontera. These towers were built in the 16th century and fires were lit on the upper part of the towers to indicate the presence of invading pirates.

torre del Puerco, Spain 2020

As we headed further along this rugged coastline, the beauty of this un-spoiled region of Spain never disappoints.

Views along the coast, south of Chiclana de la Frontera

Finally, we picked up cycle trails which actually run all the way into Chiclana but we stopped at La Barossa for a picnic lunch and then headed back to Conil, our return route taking us along the cliffs between the port of Conil and Conil itself.

Typcial Spanish cycleway, 2020

On our return, I watched a great game of rugby between France and Wales in the six nations. It could probably have gone either way but for the odd dubious decision but probably in the end, France just about deserved it. Let’s see what Ireland England brings tomorrow.

It was late for the BBQ, the new lights showing off our awning!

The Awning at night. Camping la Roselada, Conil 2020

This was the route we took along the coast today.

Cycling Conil to La Barossa

Eurotrip 8, 2020 – Day 41, Roman Excavations, Baelo Claudia…

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The Roman exvacations at Baelo Claudia are located next to the town of Bolonia, some 60 minutes drive north along the coast.

Baelo Claudia is the name of the ancient Roman town, located 22 kilometres (14 mi) outside of Tarifa, near the village of Bolonia, in southern Spain. Lying on the shores of the Strait of Gibraltar, the town was originally a fishing village and trade link when it was settled some 2,000 years ago. Although prosperous at the time of Emperor Claudius, it went into a decline hastened by earthquakes and was abandoned by the 6th century.

Entry through the visitor centre reveals a model of the Roman town.

Model of Baelo Claudia, Bolonia

The study of its architectural remains shows its Roman origin at the end of the 2nd century BC, already observed since that time a great wealth that makes it an important economic center in the Mediterranean area.

It is possible that Baelo Claudia had some functions of governmental administration, but tuna fishing, salting, and the production of garum were the primary sources of wealth. The city was eventually successful enough to be granted the title of municipium by Emperor Claudius.

The life of the inhabitants reached its greatest splendor during the 1st century BC and the 2nd century AD. In the middle of the 2nd century, however, the town declined, probably as a result of a major earthquake which wiped out a large part. In addition to such natural disasters, by the 3rd century, the town was beset by hordes of pirates, both Germanic and Barbary. Although it experienced a slight renaissance later in the century, by the 6th century, the town had been abandoned.

Amphitheatre at Baelo Claudia, Spain 2020

Excavations have revealed the most comprehensive remains of a Roman town in the whole of the Iberian Peninsula, with extremely interesting monuments such as the basilica, theatre, market, and the temple of Isis. The spectacular setting in El Estrecho Natural Park allows one on a clear day to to see the coast of Morocco.

Baelo Claudia, Spain 2020

The water supply of the city was carried out by means of four aqueducts.

Aquaduct, Baelo Claudia, Spain 2020
Aquaduct, Baelo Claudia, Spain 2020
Aquaduct, Baelo Claudia, Spain 2020

The industrial area can also be seen with remains of the garum manufacturing facilities, streets, aqueducts, remnants of the sewerage system, etc. In no other Roman site of the Iberian Peninsula is it possible to extract after the visit such a complete vision of Roman urbanism as in Baelo Claudia. In this lies its main interest, highlighted also by the spectacular landscape that surrounds the city.

Views around the bay, Baelo Claudia, Spain 2020

The Romans certainly knew how to pick a stunning location for their towns.

Stunning views from Baelo Claudia

It was a full-on day (and another day from beautiful sunny weather) as the restaurant laid on one of its communal nights – A Magical Arabic evening with Belly Dancing. We thought it a little expensive at 25 Euros per person (not including drinks) but the drinks only added a further 16 Euros and I’m sure the belly dancer required some remuneration. Ahmed, the life and soul of the restaurant operation is from Morocco, speaks about 6 different languages (fluently) and roped his wife into cooking the Moroccan food. I wasn’t keen on the desert but the rest of the meal and the entertainment was excellent.

Starter, Chicken Almond Pastry
Tajin of meat with plum and apricot, sesame
Moroccan sweet

I asked Ahmed if the Belly Dancer was also from Morocco to which he smiled and replied “of course not”!

Belly Dancer at Moroccan night, Camping Rosaleda 2020